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Check the basics, is there power at fuse panel? Is there a good ground to dash frame? Is anything operating in instrument panel? Do you have a second voltage limiter to try?

I use them, glass mat battery is definitely the way to go. You can use a regular charger on them as long as it’s not over 3 amps. Takes longer to charge but they can recover better than a flooded lead acid battery

So to answer your question, the extension I believe is bolted on to the starter already in the box. It usually has a black cover over it

Well without extension it does run close to the block. You might need it but I currently don’t run one

Do you run headers? Which kind? It really depends on your exhaust set up

It does eliminate the meter but it can be replaced with voltmeter. Lots of examples in electrical section of forum. Let me see if I can find a example

It’s not difficult at all. You already have to replace fusible link. You will most likely have to pull instrument cluster to get to amp meter connections.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges2.shtml This should help explain

It’s time to look at bulk head connector and possibly bypass it. Too much resistance in connector will cause fusible link to melt like that.

check spark,check fuel pressure,and compression. check using ignition wire off and long screw driver for spark. remove cap off fuel rail at injectors to check if there is fuel pressure. take spark plug no 1 out and crank with finger over spark plug hole for compression. One of these items is not...