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Thanks for the response, but my headers are Doug's not TTIs. It's great that they went over backwards to make it work for your application. I have the crank pulley, the previous owner converted to manual from power steering in the past, and I have all of the brackets etc. associated to convert...

To add to this post, I as well love the manual steering box feel when I'm on the road going highway speeds. Now that I've had some major problems with my shoulders in the last 10 years, I am looking to upgrade my steering to power steering. I do have all of the parts needed to convert to factory...

I would grind the caliper to fit, it won't reduce the strength of the caliper by much if any. The suggestion to use spacers would work too, even though it's not ideal. I would tend to grind the caliper to fit, because the wheel is hub centric, and spacing them out is not the best idea...

If it's damaged and a poor repair, I would tend to cut out that section of the frame and replace it with a good rust free section. (If you are or someone you know is a good welder) That means the foot or so containing the 2 mounts for the upper control arm. I would tend to look at the area...

You will also need a V8 center link for the steering.

Thank you for your post. This came at the perfect time because I'm facing the same thing, and was going to order a new p/s box from firm feel. (stage 2 like you did) One question though, did you rebuild the coupler at the same time? I'm tired of driving a car that ''hunts'' all of the time like...

My apologies. The ''easy'' way is to have the k-member hot tanked, pressure washed, and then use some rust resistant paint in and out the best you can..... It'll last forever.

Yeah, there is no ''easy'' way. What I do is to scrape all of the gunk off and clean what I can see with solvent and/or oven cleaner. Then I wire wheel it all with a angle grinder. I heat up the seams with a torch and I weld all of them solid. For the shitty factory welds on the mounts etc. I...

What a beautiful car! '69 Coronets were always my favorite!

I think it would work depending on how big of a tire you use and the springs used in the rear. For example, on my car with the Super Stock springs, I could probably run that wheel with a 275 60 15 because the springs lift it up more on the back end and the factory wheel tubs don't come into...

Thank you for the compliment, it was a lot of work! The car has factory 15 X 6 1/2 rally wheels off of a Cordoba and 255 60 15 radial t/a tires on the rear.

I'll do better than that. If you click on the link at the bottom of my post, you can read my build thread that has lots of pictures etc. on the modifications and installation in my car. (It's the little one in blue) Tell me what you think after.

I run a stock width '69 B-Body rear end with factory axles and 10'' drum brakes in my '74 Dart Sport. All I had to do is move the spring perches in 1'' on each side. The wheel and tire combo I use is a stock 15 X 6 1/2'' Mopar rally wheel with 255 60 - 15'' radial T/A tires. Also, I use Super...

I used the 002/003 springs on my Dart Sport and I love them. I also cranked up the torsion bar on the driver's side to even out the stance a bit.....

Unless it's a true ''resto'', and given the choice, I would use the '73 and up spool mount K member every time. The same goes for the front suspension and BBP brakes. They are better, stronger, and parts are cheaper and more available than the crummy SBP stuff. That being said, a lot of people...

I would go with PST. They are even a sponsor of this site and you can get a discount. Personally, I would never buy anything suspension related from Spicer again. After changing upper and lower ball joints 3 times and they still were loose, I went with Moog and they were perfect. And Spicer...

If you take the pitman arm off and turn the steering left and right to find the center and put the pitman arm back on, the steering would be centered. It would take the same amount of turns side to side. Yes, the pitman arm is splined and so is the steering wheel for a reason. Possibly, the...

This is the first thing I thought of when I read post #1. I have 002 and 003 Super Stock springs in my Dart Sport and they were noticeably higher on the right side. But then again, I was going for the look as well as the function of them..........

Now that's a good idea!

Thank you for your interest. The link is at the bottom of my post in the light blue script. ''I'm going to fix it up someday'' The resurrection of a '74 Dart Sport...... If you want to search it.........

You are almost correct with the exception that it would be from a '68 to '72 A-Body small block V8 car. The idler arm mount on a '67 is different. And you are right, the '73 and up used a spool mount K-Member.

You're spot on with your response. If you read the article, (and all of it) it states that the power steering was added at the dealership........

Yes. I got mine from Jeg's 4 years ago. 002 and 003 ones work and look awesome on my Dart Sport. They were pretty cheap too........

Great post. I also would be budgeting for a new steering box, you can adjust yours to a point to try it and that might be enough. I would change the rear suspension and definitely get rid of the air shocks. You need to mini tub the car and weld in offset spring mounts to run that big of a tire...

The Super Stock springs are stiff, but not harsh at all in my opinion. The car actually rides like a 1/2 ton as opposed to a 1 ton dually for comparison. It doesn't ride like an Imperial though, and if you do choose them, the car won't go around corners very well. Also, the car sits higher on...

My 002 and 003 Super Stock springs have settled maybe an inch in 4 years.

I would install them since you have them anyway. I put a set of 002 and 003 ones on my car (a '74 Dart Sport) and really like them. You have to get longer shocks and a brake hose from a truck for between the body and rear diff as well. Forget about handling on the street with them and they lift...

I run the 002 and 003 Super Stock springs in my Dart Sport and i love them. I got mine from Summit, and they are all i expected them to be which was to raise the rear 3'' on the passenger side and 2'' on the driver's side. It now has a good rake to it and i like it because i'm old school. I...

At the bare minimum, weld up the crack that is on the front. I would unbolt it from the frame and see if it has any tension on the bolts or if it ''springs'' out of place. If so, replace it of course.

Because that would be ridiculously unsafe. This would be along the same thinking of removing the front brakes to save weight or because they were making noise. ''But officer, the car still stopped...........eventually.'' ''But officer, the car still steered...........kinda.'' Explain that to the...