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When I went and visited him a couple of years ago, I bought the 15/16'' aluminum master with adapter from him and installed it in my Dart Sport. It was right on for my tastes and installation was easy like he said. Another vote for the Dr. Diff 15/16'' aluminum master with the 4 bolt to 2 bolt...

The '70 Dart 4 door that I had was factory equipped with the K.H. small bolt manual discs and a 14 X 4 1/2 sbp steel wheels and full size hub caps. No problems at all..........

Just put a piece of tape over the light and not worry about it. Seriously, my first step would be to verify the actual pressure with a manual gauge first. The other posts describe what to do next. Good luck........

If it's a true BBP 7 1/4 rear end, it'll be out of a '73 and up car and was transplanted in at some point in the car's past. It will also have the 10''X 2 1/2'' brakes and backing plates on it already, and you can reuse them on your 8 3/4. It is also wider than a pre '73 SBP a-body 7 1/4 rear...

In 1976 model year, all A-Bodies went from the hand pull E-Brake to the foot push style by the left kick panel like the B-Bodies had.

The master cylinder is different for manual and power brakes. Do yourself a favor and buy a new one from Dr.Diff with the proper push rod and offset mount and you will never look back. Call him and he'll set you up with what you need. Mopar Aluminum Master Cylinder Kit

Good to know, thanks for correcting this. My info came from something i read awhile back about the Hemi SS cars........

To get some facts straight, a-bodies built after December 31st 1975 all had disc brakes and big bolt pattern regardless of engine or options. From the start of the 1973 model year, all V8 a-bodies had big bolt pattern and disc brakes. From the start of the 1973 model year, all slant six a-bodies...

The power brake booster is bad, or the check valve on the top is faulty. I've had this happen to me a few times.........

I would use heat in conjunction with the PB blaster and a BFH. Clean as much rust scale and debris as you can away from where the axle and drum meet, spray a good amount of the penetrating fluid on the axle studs and where the drum meets the axle, heat the drum evenly between the studs and the...

I would bet that your car's rear diff was replaced at some time with an earlier sbp one. All a-bodies from '73 to '76 that had bbp front disc brakes from the factory had bbp rear ends in them. Some were 7 1/4'' and some were 8 1/4'' Then you automatically got the good 10'' rear brakes.

It would have 10'' rear brakes on it.

Did you do the bleeding with the m/c cover or caps off? I ran into this one time with the same results and was about to shoot the truck when i tried it with the cover off and it worked. Gawd did i feel stupid......... Other than that, i would guess the booster is toast or the one way valve on...

Good advice here, i would strongly recommend Dr.Diff (Cass is his name) for someone who knows his stuff and is willing to talk to you about your needs. His prices are good, and he ships right away. I bought some gears off of him for my Dart Sport, and they were good quality and shipped fast. I...

I have manual bbp a body disc brakes on my Dart Sport, check out my build thread. They are definitely stiffer with more pedal effort than power brakes, but they are not too bad at all. I have a '69 Valiant with the same set up and they are the same as the Dart Sport as far as feel and function...

Just curious, why don't you want bbp front disc brakes? It's an easy upgrade and i bet parts are cheaper than the old drum brake stuff. You also get much better braking with a lot less fade......

Sounds like you have some dirt, dust, or rocks in your brake linings. No, there isn't a grease nipple in the middle of the axle. (I took it as the end of the axle where the wheel bolts on)

I seem to sense that a lot of people think the F M J spindles are better than the '73 and up a-body ones. I am not an engineer or a professional racer, so would it be worth it to swap out the a-body ones for the F M J ones? I have a few sets of both, so i wouldn't have to buy anything. Thoughts?

I would sell your wheels and go with big bolt pattern. It will be cheaper in the long run. Just my 2 cents.

So, what year/application of master cylinder would work best? I'm having the same problem.

The 6th digit (number) in the serial number on the dash will tell you what year the car is. 2=1972 3=1973

Great links. Answers a lot of questions here.

It's also a good idea to check and replace all brake lines and hoses that even look suspicious of wear and cracking. I would also strongly recommend going through all of the brake components as well to be sure that it is all up to spec. and safe.

I don't know about the sure grip option, but all of the slant 6 a-bodies that i have owned or looked at '73 and newer had bbp disc brakes if they were factory equipped with power brakes. They also had a bbp 7 1/4'' rear end. On another note to the O.P., i would definitely convert your car to...

X2 Save yourself some grief here.

I still like the floor jack idea the best........

Just curious, so what i get from this is that the bigger disc brakes from a '73 to '83 b body will fit the '73 and up spindles with no changes other than the rotors, calipers, and the caliper mounts? I take it that the minimum wheel size would be 15''. Correct?

Everything is different other than lower control arms and sway bar tabs. '73 and newer had bbp and 1/2'' studs. '72 and older had sbp, and 7/16'' studs. (Kelsey/Hayes 2 piston calipers) Master cylinders were different as well as the brake booster. Sway bars were different as well as other...

Why not just change the studs then?

Manual, all the way. I would convert a power brake car to manual 100% of the time.