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Maybe just drop a line to the floor from where the back of the engine sits. Do the same with the trans cross member. Measure. Compare with trans bell face to mount bolt holes. Take lots of pitures. They can help sometimes! :)

These aren't them?............. https://ratechmfg.com/pop_up_order%201109.htm

Ratech maybe .............. https://ratechmfg.com/toc.htm

https://www.shifterdoc.com/productcart/pc/Hurst-Shifter-Installation-Instructions-Downloads-d7.htm ............ https://www.shifterdoc.com/Slip-in-handle-removal.pdf

Doesn't the axle drum register correlate with drum size on an A-body? Shouldn't matter with a disc setup once the spacing is determined, no?

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.php?prod=EH126

Tail house casting numbers and the Brewers link just might ID the count for ya'.

You might check your tail housing numbers (O/D vs 833) for spline count........ http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.php?cat=255

............ https://mymopar.com/service-manuals/

.............. http://www.doctordiff.com/blog/tech-info/rearend-pinion-comparison/ https://www.doctordiff.com/drivetrain/mopar-8-3-4/

Have you checked Mancini.......... https://www.manciniracing.com/restalbe.html

FWIW, Moser has direct fit for re-drills......... https://www.moserengineering.com/a-body-8-3-4-rear-stock-a-body-drum-brake-redrilled-spline-30.item

Maybe you could take a couple tenths off the face of the ring with a good stone?

Maybe dry it off and use some bluing on the yoke OD to help indicate where it's hanging?

............ https://mymopar.com/service-manuals/

FWIW, a '68 B trans surely won't have the E shift adapter bosses for the adapter. A while back I picked up this Ram Rod with a cut down B-body mount, said to come out of a A-body with B trans. Not sure where it actually places the shifter in a A-body.

You could fill the 4" pattern holes and drill away!

I believe all are compatible. They should still press to the same location I'd imagine. Dr Diff provides options for bearing choice........... Mopar Axle Package 5 X 4 1/2" (5 X 4.5) Bolt Pattern 30/35 Spline Set 7 on a Moser.......

Offering my experience. But if your offended, sorry.

Not IMO. On a road car only though, 7/16" should be fine. Try it with a 4 spd and slicks. Keep the hook and body panel repair shop numbers handy.

Then go with 1/2" - 20 screw ins IMO. I'm thinking you'll twist off the 7/16". Then you can worry about twisting the axle splines! I believe these are 2" screw in. With the old Cragar wheels I needed open ends legs. With the Weld I really need longer studs as 2" studs are flush with...

FWIW...........

You're probably good, but you might want to make sure the adjusters turn freely as well.

This is the plate I use to simulate the disc.......... I believe one could position flat stock to do the same.

Lol, No whoops here! It's measured to the standard (red) which is .310" (disc thickness), not to the flywheel.

This may help on your installed finger height to know where you're at. I just use a flat disc bolted between the PP and FW to verify 1.700" with a dept mic. 5/16" flat stock lengths or key stock may work as well. I believe most bells are 7.380", although I'm not sure on a 9-1/2". That...

Might it have a slipping LS or SG in the rear already? If so is it repairable? This year figure out which gear and SG you want to use. Swap it in. Next year, after you've replenished your funds, do the axles / brakes.

Maybe some help here...... 98 Dodge Ram Truck SM.pdf (spillage.net)

IMO, I don't think a loose pinion nut would impact a LSD 9-1/4 clutch pack retainer clip inside the carrier. It could possibly mar the carrier OD or chip chunks off the carrier or a tooth end off the pinion, that could potentially lock up a differential at speed.

Check this page about 3/4 the way down..... Mopar Big-Block A-Body 4-Speed Conversion (archive.org)