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Probably should provide more info. Vehicle year & make type of ignition This kind'a sounds like an open circuit in the "start" mode to me. Maybe check for loose / dirty bulkhead and ballast connections.

"The 2016-2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee can have different battery locations depending on the year and model." ........ https://www.backyardmechanic.org/where-is-the-battery-located-on-a-2016-2019-jeep-grand-cherokee-how-to-replace-it/

Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition Kit Instructions.......... https://www.mopar1.us/electronic.html

My old blue box............

https://mymopar.com/

Sparkys.....not sure if I'm thinking right here. For troubleshooting such as this tach issue while engine running, shouldn't we be able to override the ignition switch "on" position with a remote start jumped from +Bat to Ign 1 of the ballast? He engages the remote start switch when the tach...

Check for voltage with both ballast leads disconnected...........

Sure it's not a variable or three speed? Should be some numbers you can search. My two speed...

Well, you can try shimming the starter forward. There are dust shields available.

Is it hanging on the ring gear? Did you indicate this bell in?

Choosing the Right Spark Plug Heat Range As I recall, for Champion plugs, BB HP Mopar streeters were generally J11Y, the cruiser cars were J14Y. I'd guess SB would be similar. Lol, use to was, ya' stuck the hotter "14" in that weak cylinder that fouled out the "10s or 11s"!

Seems like that rules out hydro lock. Maybe look at the broken areas / pieces for evidence of cracks that opened up over time.

Does your oil smell like fuel?

4 bucks?...........

FWIW Ignition 2 is the start circuit. It bypasses the ballast while starting. Ignition 1 is the run circuit. The current flow runs through the ballast. It's what you verify in post 6.

It wouldn't hurt to clean and tighten up the bulkhead connections as well.

And you are working on what? Are you on the compression stroke when you set TDC? Are your plugs flooded with fuel? (Throw that can of starting fluid in the trash)

I had similar on my '05 Ram. Battery kept going dead. No parasitic draw issues while testing. One morning I go out to the truck and the radio is playing. Truck is locked and key is in my hand. Open the driver door and the "key in ignition" chimes start up. WTF?? Give it a smack under the wheel...

I think I might try a temporary jumper wire(s) to the fuel pump if possible. I found on a van that seemed to be killing in tank fuel pumps, the lead actually corroded inside the length of the jacket. Once replaced, it was fine. FWIW, on that crank sensor, if you do change it, sometimes they...

How old are the wires? While you verify routing, check resistances and for arching between and from your plug wires.

Lol, I installed the 732 VR on my '69 when I converted to elec. ign. way back. Seems to work just F & D even with a standard coil / ballast. I kinda' like the color too!:D

Mopar Performance Voltage Regulator (manciniracing.com)

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I don't know if this helps ya' but FWIW, This is part of what came with my distributor kit. It's worked just fine since maybe '86 or so with my '69 stock harness. I am not currently running the 534 chrome box, coil, ballast set, but a "real" Mopar orange with appropriate coil and ballast. I also...

No guarantees. Appears you are "replacing" an electronic ignition. Some install instruction here. Review it all then check page 2 , REPLACING ELECTRONIC IGNITION: Additional Tools Required: None.............. Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition Kit Instructions (mopar1.us)

Does this help?

I believe "P" was being incorporated in PN's around '70/'71 in the "Hustle Stuff" days, back when I was hustling newspapers from a delivery bike before school. :D

I'm thinking they are the same. But to answer this definitively one would need to be the design engineer. For all I know the "P" prefix possibly sold as the stand alone over the counter and mine is the package version. Could also signal a change in who manufactured it or a revision of it. The...