Search results for query: *

Maybe get a rough measurement of the current seal depth, the axle lip depth after seal removal, and the new seal thickness for reference of install depth. Don't forget to grease the seal spring so it stays put while installing.

Those were std.

What my old ones were if it can help........

Out of the box. maybe you could expand them a bit with threaded rod and nuts?

Lol, the hard right turn scrapes the bottom of the 402 pan a touch. FWIW, I believe the 893 is the better fitting pan for steering linkage as the notch is further rearward compared to the Hemi pan........

From the passenger side of my '69 (402 oil pan)...........

BTW, if those seals have a tensioning spring, make sure they are in the seal before you set your axles.....

And flange to seal?

How does the depth of the seal compare to the above? You did remove the old seal(?).

no

...........

More on them here............. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/slapper-bars.369732/

without buttons.............

I can't imagine the old one was installed as such. You might figure a way to support the a-arm so you can put some down force on it while starting it. Lol, way back, I took a die grinder to a socket that as I recall, used only once before. Haven't used it since.

FWIW, I back off the nut a couple turns but don't remove it until I'm ready to remove.

Maybe some help......... See post #7 in Kendog's post. and....... mopar p4529514 shock experience Mopar Performance P4529514: Drag Racing Rear Shock Absorber A-Body w/ Automatic Transmission - JEGS High Performance

IMO, Looks to me that's in front of the trans crossmember and the boot is pulled away. Also, the trans crossmember bolt appears loose. If the bar is broken, I would think he could shake it around. If the bar height adjuster bolt stripped, the bolt head will likely be much lower than the opposite...

More OOTB, A die grinder and carbide burr might help you re-center the hole......

OOTB, If you have the room, an 1/8" hole drilled in the side of the frame at the bolt locations may allow you to saturate them with PB Blaster.

Heres what I pressed out of my old DS axle. Another member needed the Lefts so they are gone. I never did measure the knurl though. The rears were not swedged.... Here's the axle they came out of.........

................

Knurl size??????.......... Moroso 46150 Press-In Wheel Studs, 7/16-20 x 2-7/8 Inch, .480 In. Dia (speedwaymotors.com) Mr Gasket 4310G Competition Wheel Stud, 7/16 Inch (speedwaymotors.com)

FWIW, You might consider giving the bracket attachment areas a thorough exam. They are notorious for rust out.

Lol, Did the same years ago with a 1-7/8 12 point for my '69 before the disc swap...........

Seems the setup is pretty similar across the brands. I see nothing Chrysler specific here.......... Traction Bars and Components - Holley lakewood_instructions_traction_bars_gm_street_strip_21606_21607.pdf (holley.com) The only picture of my old school bars I have.........

Out of the box, if you're uneasy about welding and overheating the bj, ya' might consider refurbishing the a-arm hole. The bj should cut new threads. The trick would be keeping it straight.

If I recall there were bolt in connectors available way back when. FWIW, What the 2" X (vertical) 3" through the rear floor pans will look like this when flush with lowest point of the existing frame.....

2 X 3 X .125 wall tube used here........... Weld In Your Own Frame Connectors (archive.org)

A length of threaded rod and a couple nuts / washers can help to spread the bracket mounts if needed.

Lol, Back when I raised my Ramcharger 3", the rear got blocks, then driven over to Spring-align. The front got a pair of new main leaf springs arched to level it. They wouldn't just use the originals for some liability thing. Not a month later I flattened out the new left main leaf. They said...