Search results for query: *

They can be, however, they really need to be exact. These are screw in grade 8s. Press ins will be even closer to the stock axle edge. Large heads on the studs may interfere with the parking brake strut. The drums aren't as critical as the register centers them. IMO, done right...

How long have these been on the vehicle............and working? Are the current drums shot? Are you satisfied with drum performance? FWIW, I like the LBC myself. I changed my stock 9" drum setup for '74 Dart LBC manual discs, UCAs, and MC. I've also had redrilled LBC rear axles with 1/2"...

Here's what my '69 looks like (InLine SS cable set)........ I didn't pull the seat. I used a 2 X 3 foot piece of plywood and a jack stand. My bolt was a bit longer than necessary and to hard to remove from to the right. So I bent the bracket a touch to get it out. I shortened the bolt up...

Lol, arching brake shoes use-ta-was taught in HS Auto shop way back! Not many dust masks were issued back then.:eek: Just a dust collection system as I recall.

.......

Appears to be a 10 x 2-1/4 " front drum from what I'm seeing.

I have a new one on a shelf. Is it and 8-3/4" axle?

Are you looking for this one?

Lol, that's what led to the deep sea gold Discovery documentaries.

Any scraping sound when loose? Make sure the parking brake isn't hanging up and the shoes are completely against the pin.

SBC 10" X 1-3/4"? Getting hard to find. Don't know about this outfit but the site says in stock. Inflated price for sure though............. https://www.vividracing.com/centric-ctek-standard-brake-drum-12363044-p-153962507.html

FWIW, this is what my stock '69 re-drilled flanges for 1/2" studs look like. The old 7/16" holes were filled. You'll get pretty close to the O.D. with press-in studs. These studs are 1/2" X 2" screw ins........... My Moser re-drilled direct replacement axles have a larger diameter and...

Lol, I gave mine away just to create floor space........

After running without a while with a 4spd, I'd recommend a parking brake. But, when I didn't have my parking brake functioning on my Barracuda, I used a length of 2X3 doubled at one end for a chock. I could lay it on the ground from the driver seat and let the car roll to it. Then too there's...

Just throwing this out there. How tight are the rear shoes adjusted to the drums? Make sure the parking brake cables aren't binding, keeping the shoes expanded when released.

FWIW, it was a 383 4 spd car. BH29H9B What came off it...... I still have this old MC laying around here somewhere..... Sway bar was already gone when I traded my '71 Challenger Rt 340 4 spd for it and a '66 Satellite back in '80. The HD leafs are still on it. Never broke a spindle but...

My '69 Formula S had manual 9" front and 10" rear drums factory. Fronts are now '74 Dart manual disc. Still using the stock 10" rear drum. Gave the 9s away....

FWIW, I've had re-drilled rear drums since I've owned my '69. Small register std 8-3/4 old drum / new drum...... New drum re-drilled.......

What register diameter?

That's the one!

That is the cable adjustment at the back end into the equalizer bracket.

Lol, I can tell ya' this. If you purchase their main brake cable in a set or as a single, check the adjustment locknut for high torque before installing it up under the dash! Because it can be a PITA to install up there :D...........

Careful on any cutter purchase. Are you lugs 7/16" or 1/2"? A 100 on that tool, but I don't see an ID size for it.

Some info here.......... Wheel stud swedge cutting tool | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum

Sorry, was thinking rear. See RRR comments!

No it's not.

They packaged a "5/16-18 3 hit top lock flange automation" nut for the hardened adjustment rod which is way too high in prevailing torque. When asked about their spec, they replied that they don't have one. If you do get this set with that nut, test the nut on the threads BEFORE you install...

My '69 is a 3 cable. I just installed an Inline Tube set. Not particularly pleased with their quality and support.

If your caliper pistons were pushed all the way back and the assembly was tight without brake fluid and bleeding from the get go, I would suspect a size / fit issue. If the tightness shows up once you've added brake fluid and bleeding I would be thinking a MC issue.