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Read post #4. Separate the two nuts first.....

You could go by the MP recommended 3/4" minimum spacing. Adding a shroud may well change that dimension. You could also tape a piece of cardboard to the radiator so you don't skin your knuckles or damage the fins. Just don't forget to remove it!

How were they packaged? I'm thinking possibly stained from RP over time.

Maybe Holley 1920 in '70? Download your year manual..... MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

Looks like a "flex type" nut.

I expect mostly for heat dissipation.

Something such as these? 1971-1976 All Makes All Models Parts | MD4698 | 1971-76 Mopar Ecu Mounting Bracket | Classic Industries ECU Mounting Bracket Kit 72-74 E

IMO, between magnetic or penetrant methods for open surface defects, either is reliable done correctly. The circled indication in post 19 should show up like a sore thumb with either method. Determining the depth of the defect is something else as well as IDing any subsurface defect. It gets a...

Lol, On acceleration from a stop and especially on left turns, my 9-1/4' LS (corporate clutch type) would click embarrassingly loud without the friction modifier additive.

FWIW, If you cant find an actual spec for it, I think 440source suggests .015"-.030" for their BB rockers.

.................. http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/reference_radiatorguide.php

A couple references on Mymopar if you haven't seen (1976)................ http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=441

When I first listened at a low volume setting it almost sounded as though it were dieseling. I realize you've said it's not timing but does the timing mark advance steady and hold at the rpm when making the noise? How does your oil look off the dip stick? What psi oil pressure do you have...

I believe the stock timing is like 2-2-1/2° BTDC @ 750 RPM auto 800 RPM man. Disconnect distributor vacuum and plug line. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=146776

The right way is the long way. You should take it down to do it right. While as is, have you tried to fit a new dowel? Pictures do show damage to the hole. Pretty hard to tell extent of damage from them. I wouldn't worry about the "C" cut in the face. IMO just to help lubricate between the...

Ah Ha! Maybe you found the missing link!

If it was the same bolt I'd expect it to come out rather easily. Of course that depends on if it went in correctly or cross thread. Sometimes you can rotate it out with an engraver. High speed air would be best. If your going to drill, do your best to center punch it in the center first.

What gear is in the D100 now? Maybe base it off that. You certainly don't want to be "double clutchin" to get her moving.

"Thoughts? Opinions?" Did it leak inside the engine also? Fire extinguisher a must.

capacitor in the point dist to store charge?

Summit Racing® Cam Degree Wheels SUM-G1057 I think this is Dell's recommendation.............. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1057

Why couldn't you just use the small degree wheel as you protractor. Make the same size center hole for your new 10" or 12" disk. Use a straight edge to mark it off.

x2

I agree with JD. But you are at option time. IMO, don't leave yourself saying "I should have ............"