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I got one of the handheld borescopes off Amazon a couple years back for cheap. Did the job just fine.

Interesting. Never heard of that before. I'd think the box was something out of the 80s if not for the QR code on top.

I have the same rig. What settings are you running if you're butt welding regular mopar sheet metal?

I feel like the concrete slab is the biggest expense these days.

Similar guns can be had for much cheaper. I bought one years back and I did a lot of work with it but it was a pain in the ***. Constantly clogged up, despite having plenty of filtration. Probably needed some mods done to it like the HF cabinet blast gun requires. Makes a huge mess.

I've had a pair of those for 20 years. One of my favorite tools. Klein makes really good stuff. You buy once and you'll never need an upgrade.

I figured out how to get them to work. You have to trim the ears down a little bit on the packard connector. This allows them to curl when being crimped. When I don't do this, the two ears just meet at the top and form a triangle over the wire, which is useless. Maybe they work fine with some...

Just found out it was actually my neighbor that ran the drain pipe and not the city/county so those flex tap saddles are going to be my saving grace. Thanks a lot!

My house has a drainage ditch in the back yard that runs from east to west. Basically the drainage from a handful of houses to the east runs through my backyard to a 6in drain. My neighbor said he was around when they installed it and apparently it's a 6in drain that has a 90* coupler that...

Why go with the lean to on the side and not a bigger enclosure? I remember looking them up a couple years ago and the lean to aspect was almost as expensive as just getting a bigger building.

Don't buy these off of Amazon. They don't "curl" the crimp down at all and are useless for packard 56 crimping.

Mods this is a bot.

I bought the Amazon knock off version of this and one thing I can add is to make sure the two bars are dead even with each other when tightening the wing nuts. If I take my tool and just tighten the wing nuts without taking the time to really dial it in, one side will be 1/16" higher than the...

I used copper because it was cheaper than a plastic system at the time.

I've had that compressor for a few years now. It's been fantastic. Only thing I've had to change is the petcock on the bottom. Does everything I need, including paint.

I'd get a gun set up that has at minimum 1.3, 1.7 and 2.0 nozzles. Trying to go cheap on the initial purchase might bite you in the *** later if you wind up having to spring for nozzles when you could have gotten an equally adequate gun with all the stuff included for much less. Ask me how I know.

Mods I think we've got a bot on our hands :lol:

I would get that Bosch one. It looks like the exact same thing as the classic Sears one that I've used for years. No reason to spend high dollar on something like this.

I think you'll be fine with it for the vast majority of car repairs. Like everyone already said, don't mess with trying to flux core weld sheetmetal. Also invest in a decent helmet. I made the mistake of using a Harbor Freight one for years until it finally bit me in the ***. Got a Hobart one...

I'm not trying to do this project live or anything. I talked to PG&E and they said it would require trenching through my asphalt driveway to run 200 amp service so I'm basically stuck with what I've got at 125. Not a big deal. I planned on doing the work myself but this situation has me at a...

If I do any modifications to the conduit length, then I'll have to talk to the county and PG&E about extending the feed length because there's no way it'll be long enough if I add a couple of 45s to the existing conduit. Even if I'm able to do that, if I run into any sort of snag along the way...

Here's a couple pictures of it. When I talked to the county, they advised to not modify the box and to not run the entrance feed in on the same side as the loads.

I'm stumped here so I'm hoping one of you guys have ran into this issue before and know what to do. I've got an old 125A Zinsco combo main panel w/meter that I need to replace. The panel is mounted to the outside of my house, just left of the garage door. The feed from the power company comes...

I'd buy the more expensive assisted crimpers if I needed to crimp for my job and needed to use them every day. I'd buy one of the thinner manual crimpers if I was doing an entire harness. I'd use needle nose pliers and a dab of solder if I was just repairing a connection here or there.

Good idea. I used a similar one with a piece of hose and tape to get down in the trunk in between the quarter and trunk extensions.

Do your homework and look up all the reviews you can on these metal building companies. Lots of shady scams out there or middlemen who do nothing for you other than cost you a couple thousand dollars extra for their "service".

I just use the audible resistance setting on a cheapo Harbor Freight voltmeter. Use it to see if your hot wires are shorted to ground.

Not that it's safe or anything but I've only seen a couple of painters on any of the shows on Motortrend that use fresh air systems. The majority look like they use standard 3m respirators.

I have a Hobart 140 and I'm 90% sure the cord is just a standard looking 14 gauge cord.

I have a hard time believing it's the extension cord unless it has some sort of damage to it or it's over 100ft at 14 gauge or smaller.