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This is a 489 case with a new 3.73 ring and pinion and crush sleeve eliminator. Is this pattern saying that I need to add a pinion shim to increase the pinion height? If so, I don't think there's any way I can remove the pinion bearing without destroying it. Is it possible to just add a shim...

You'll really have to try to break it if you're going to break it behind a slant 6.

Call me crazy but I still don't see what's so difficult about making that upper crossmember. Plasma cutter, grinder, mig and a couple hours and you should be able to recreate that pretty easily out of some flat stock. The price is the reason why you'd do it. I concede that the lower crossmember...

Someone here could probably make a lot of money by reproducing that crossmember. Can't imagine it being that difficult at all for someone with the right tools and very basic fabrication skills. I always thought it was overpriced by about double what it should actually cost.

It could be possible but the bracket doesn't change the throw of the shifter itself. Once I center the shifter in the boot, it doesn't move anymore to the right or left with the bracket than it would without it. It's workable, but it's tight. Which is why it seems crazy to me that you could then...

After messing around with it, I'm genuinely surprised that you are able to use the factory top plate with the T56. If the spacing in the shift pattern between 1st and 5th is the same on a TKX vs. a T56, then I just can't see how you are able to get the T56 into reverse without running into...

Good job man you made quick work of that! No one other than Mopar purists would ever even know it wasn't stock.

Now that I think about it, I bet if you flipped the shifter position to the position closer to the firewall and used the shift adapter that places the shifter closer to the driver side (Tremec TKX conversion in A-body!), I bet that would put the shifter in about the same position as stock and...

I don't see a reason why you would need to buy a 4 speed console. The tunnel is going to wind up being much more similar to an auto tunnel rather than a 4 speed tunnel so I would think that the auto console with a 4 speed top plate would be a better fit unless there's something I'm not thinking...

We just started talking about it in another thread. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/convince-me-to-put-a-tkx-in-my-dart.515130/page-5#post-1974155712

Appreciate the info but I'm honestly not too worried about it. I mean the 833 is a side loader and the TKX is a top loader so I wasn't expecting the shifter to be even close to the same position as the factory 4 speed would. I don't know what they mean about retaining the factory look because...

Just to add to the TKX info... I'm in the process of fabbing up the console location using a stock auto console with a 4 speed top plate. If you use the standard shift location (closer to the tail shaft) and a standard 45* Hurst type shifter, the console will have to be moved too far toward...

Nice keep us updated! I'm in the process of doing the install on my 68 Barracuda but a bad cold has cost me a full week. I'm converting my auto console to a manual console so I can't help with the shift boot dilemma. Your kit cost about $700 less than mine did from SST. Did it come with the...

Looks like its normal. Machined to help the speedo cable clear the ear.

Thanks the picture wasn't loading for me when I was looking over the thread yesterday. Not bad at all. I did the second cross cut already so I'll see how it fits after. I need to call SST today. Noticed one of the ears has some strange machining marks on it.

Hey Arthur did you just wind up having to do the 2 cross cuts on the center hump or did you have to do the third that is up closer to the firewall?

Thanks man looks like the prices went even further up than I was expecting. I'll look into sourcing the parts myself as well so this is a great start.

Awesome I believe SST's is $500 with the 1350 joints so even with inflation I should be well below that.

Awesome thanks! Do you remember roughly what the price was for theirs?

I went ahead and ordered the kit today. Everything is included except the drive shaft. Came out to about $6130. This is a 68 Barracuda small block auto car so it needed the whole kit.

Awesome thanks. Had no idea. I'll ask about it when I give them a call. Would be nice to not have to worry about moving the brackets but I guess it all depends on if there's added costs to it that outweigh the time it takes to do the extra fabrication.

Hey I don't blame you for not shelling out the money and it's not like anyone is going to see underneath it anyway so it doesnt really matter if it's factory as long as it holds the console in place. I've got a pretty nice auto console and have been pondering over a TKX swap for a while now...

Excellent work. Did you have to relocate the floor brackets for the console install?

Awesome glad to hear it worked out. Looking forward to more updates as your complete the install.

Any idea on how you're going to go about this? Think you could just take the crossmember hump you cut out and raise it up just enough for clearance? Maybe get some same thickness flat stock and weld your own U channel "spacers" to connect the crossmember piece pictured above to the crossmember...

I daily drove my Duster for about 12 years. Thought about buying one of those OD units but I did the math and I'd have to daily drive it for about another decade to break even on it.

Thanks guys, I bet it's the boot since it got rebuilt and was changed out. It could be a little less than 2" but I'm just going off of memory. I have a spare yoke here and the rusty part is much shorter so I wasn't sure if it was right or not. If it's not the boot thing, then it must have...

I removed the driveline and transmission a few months ago from my 71 Duster, 904, 7 1/4", slant six, and recently put the transmission back in. I installed new u joints over the weekend and threw the driveline in as well. Everything went in just fine and nothing was altered in any way other...

I think you answered your own question, jump on that A body 8 3/4. That's a good price. The B body rears are going to need to be shortened or will need more backspacing to fit your wheels in there.

Thanks guys, I did some measuring tonight and my BBP wheels have 3.5" backspacing. Basically they will fit in there without any room to move. Which is obviously a no go. I think 5" backspacing is what you need if you're going to use the 65-67 B rear on a Barracuda. Do you guys know what the...