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Anyone know where the square u bolts that go through the frame can be purchased? The threads on mine are stripped out.

Wound up having to cut 1/2" off the end of the shaft. Took an hour to drill the 3 holes required for the coupler attachment. I had to use the least amount of pressure as possible with plenty of cutting fluid to keep the bits from breaking.

That adapter basically just lengthens the steering shaft. It's not a coupler. You'd attach the adapter to the coupler you have pictured.

I'll try and get it completely apart to look tonight. Are you talking about pin 19-46-44 in that diagram or is it in a different area? I don't think that pin or even a provision for it exists on my column but I'll have to take another look.

I noticed the factory lower bearing was toast on my 68 Barracuda floor shift column so I bought one of the bearings from 72blunblu's how to article. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-replace-your-lower-column-bearing-better-and-cheaper.66/ The column basically has the main...

I did a test fit and it fits but I'm wondering if it fits because I accidentally collapsed the column shaft or if it fits because power steering columns are supposed to fit with no trimming?

I bought this kit from Jegs a while back and just did a test fit. This is a 68 Barracuda with a power steering floor shift column. https://www.jegs.com/i/Borgeson/153/999065/10002/-1 The column installs into the coupler without the shaft needing to be cut but I always thought they needed to be...

The ignition switch is very easy to troubleshoot at the connector with a cheapo Harbor Freight voltmeter. If you don't know how to do it, ask and we can walk you through it. It's a 5 minute job that will save you from spending the time and money on swapping the switch, only to find out it's...

Did you tighten the nut on the pivot before lowering the car to the ground? I tightened everything on my first suspension rebuild before I lowered the car on the ground and I wound up having to redo my UCA and LCA bushings because they only lasted a month or two. Left everything loose the next...

Yeah I made this mistake the first time I rebuilt my suspension. Tightened the UCA and LCAs in the air and it squeaked like crazy a couple weeks later. Wound up having to redo all the most difficult parts of the suspension rebuild all over again.

Wouldn't it be less risky to just tighten it with a ratchet while it's on the ground and then use the torque wrench once it's in the air? I feel like if you're a little off with your angle while you're in the air, then you're going to have that amount of flex once it's torqued and on the...

I did a PST rebuild kit with their 1.03 torsion bars and Bilstein shocks. The car rode like a hardtail motorcycle. Every small blip in the road felt like a massive bang inside the car. If you ever need to loosen up some hard to reach bolts under the dash, just drive the car like that for a week...

I have no way of knowing but by the looks and feel, the Moog stuff still seems pretty good. Only problem I had was getting the lower control arm boots to sit right. It's like they were just a gnats *** too small. PST is just a kit of random parts from different brands put together for you. Me...

I pieced together a kit on RockAuto because I was able to get all Moog stuff. The other kits can be a mix of random brands.

I can't seem to get the nut off the front of the strut rod on the passenger side of my Duster. I've tried penetrating fluid, heat, hitting with a hammer etc and nothing seems to work. I put two nuts on the other side of the strut rod to hold it tight and tried getting the nut off the front and...

Do you guys know if the wheels need to be realigned if you've only changed the idler and pitman arms?

I believe you'll need a manual steering box, pitman arm for a manual car and a steering column adapter like this Mopar Performance P4510637: Manual Steering Adapter Fits: A/B/E-Body | JEGS They might be had for cheaper but that's the first one that came up on google. You can avoid getting...

I'm having the exact same problem. It's coming from the rear driver side area. I looked at the brakes all around the car (all drum) and everything is fine. When the car is jacked up, there's no clicking sound at all. Put the wheels on and there's still no clicking sound when I spin them while...

Upper control arm bushings can be pressed in using a home made tool. Just get a long thick bolt, some sturdy washers and a nut and press them in yourself. Lower control arm bushings will have to be either pressed out or burned out and then chiseled out. Then the new one needs to be pressed...

Time to decide if you want to upgrade to disc brakes or not as well. If you already have discs then that's great. If you don't and you're learning toward getting discs, then you might as well do the disc/suspension rebuild at the same time because some of the suspension pieces are different for...

A lot of times it's the upper control arm bushings. I've done this before. You press the bushings in and with the front end still jacked up, you tighten the bolts down. Once you drop the car off the jack, the control arm rotates up and it twists the rubber inside of the metal jacket. After a...

I'd just buy a used set of stock strut rods. They're probably a dime a dozen. No need to go to adjustable rods unless it's necessary for your build.

PST kits are $230. They come pieced together but there are some Moog parts in there. If you want an idler arm and pitman arm then it'll be $100 extra or so...but still well below whatever kits you guys are looking at for $500+. A lot of these expensive kits come with things you probably...

I was going to attempt the mod the magazine called for a long time ago but my car had a different brand pump in it. Can't remember the name but it wouldn't have worked for that.

I don't know what the flaming river stuff feels like but stock power steering feels like you're driving on ice. There's absolutely no feel for the road. You can pretty much drive anywhere with one finger. I'll always use manual steering. My only gripe about it is parking but I'll take that over...

Thanks, looks like I need the 73+ upper and lower ball joints as well as upper control arm bushings. Everything else should be 67. I was wondering because I was going to call PST and see if they could put together a mix and match kit for me instead of having to buy everything separately.

I'm doing a 73+ A body BBP disc conversion on my 67 Barracuda. I know the ball joints are going to be bigger for sure. Are the upper control arm bushings any different? Also will I need a different lower ball joint? I'm assuming the rest of the suspension pieces will stay true to the 67...

I put a suspension kit in a 67 Valiant and the threads in both the control arms were shot to the point where there were hardly threads anymore. The ball joints threaded in but it was more like they were just cutting their own threads into the control arm. Was forced to tack weld both ball joints...

In most cases you get what you pay for. I personally don't trust Autozones brands at all. An $11 ball joint seems like a nice savings until you have to do it again in a couple years. At that point you'll be kicking yourself for not spending the extra money in the first place. Now remember with...

Rockauto lists the same adjuster sleeves for 68 and 71, yet the 68 tie rod ends are 3x as expensive. The tie rod ends the bigblockdart link suggest you to get are the more expensive ones and the link says they work for nearly every A body other than the early Valiants. I think you're safe...