Search results for query: *

Manual all the way. Cheaper and less parts that can fail.

Figured it out. Turned out to be the wheel cylinders were out too far. I cracked the bleeders and the drums fit like normal after. I must have been working under the dash or something while I was waiting for the paint on the drums to dry and accidentally tapped the brake pedal. Stupid me if...

Thanks for all the replies guys. I drove it home a couple years ago and started tearing it apart. The brakes worked well enough to get me home and I don't recall it being difficult to get the drums off. Unfortunately I don't have any of the hardware that was originally installed. So the oval...

68 Barracuda. 10" drums on an 8 1/4" rear. New shoes and hardware. E brake disconnected at the adjuster. Brake adjusters threaded as far in as they'll go. The drums are tight on both sides. I can get the drums on but they are tighter than I would ever want them and that is with the hardware...

I used this style. You just have to be meticulous about every step. If you half *** anything, you're asking for a leak. One of the more important steps is to make sure the two bars are completely level when you tighten the wing nuts. Sometimes I had to tighten and loosen the wing nuts 7 or 8...

It's definitely the spring on the right not being the right spring.

I tried using a vacuum bleeder but it was pulling fluid out of my proportioning valve and leaking out of the caliper bleeders. Whenever I'd use the pedal method I'd get no leaks out of the prop valve but I'd still get a little out of the bleeder threads. My brakes were a bit soft but still...

I wish I had an answer for you. I just put KH discs on the front of my Duster and I'm not impressed with the improvement over 9" drums. If someone installed the discs on the front while I was away and I came back and drove the car, I wouldn't even be able to tell there was a conversion done...

Never heard of annealing copper but now I know. Thanks! Going to try that as well and see what happens.

Thanks I'll look around for a used one. I'm also going to grab a crush washer kit and see if I can do a quick fix on it. Appreciate all the advice. What a pain and a waste of time this has been.

Yeah it has a copper crush ring. When I installed the lines from the MC to the prop valve, I put the prop valve nut fitting at the top in the vise to ensure it didn't turn at all when I tightened the line to it. After installing it and attempting to bleed the brakes, it started dripping from...

I returned the prop valve to Summit and bought another one from Inline Tube. The leak at the port to the real line is gone but the thing leaks badly from the top at the crush washer. What gives??? Getting tired of this.

Just did a drum to KH disc conversion. Went to bleed the brakes and had multiple problems. The proportioning valve I bought from Summit leaked from the top nut so I tightened it down and it improved things but still couldn't get it to stop leaking all the way. It also leaked where the line...

I wound up finding a couple washers that were really close in size to the races and just ground the outside of them down a hair to make them slightly smaller. Used them as a driver to install the races. Then just used a small block of wood to hammer the oil seal in. Turned out to be an easy job...

Thanks I think I actually have a similar set buried in the garage somewhere. I'll have to look for it when I get home. Should make the installation even quicker.

Thanks guys I wound up punching them out with a brass punch. Wasn't too bad at all. I'm just that guy who always seems to ruin parts because I didn't know there was some trick or step involved that wasn't total common sense. After doing one of the hubs there isn't much to it. Painting them up...

Hey guys I'm reading the Kelsey Hayes disc install tutorial and it just says to run a search on here for an explanation on installing the bearings and all that inside the hub. I've been searching on here but I can't seem to find the information I need on it. Does anyone have a link or set of...

Rockauto wholesale closeout is your friend when it comes to these small brake parts. You can literally get shoes, wheel cylinders, springs, self adjusters, hardware and all for like $50 or less. They all come out of the same warehouse so no expensive shipping costs.

Any updates?

That one says 15" wheels required. If the vehicle is already big bolt pattern, then 73+ A body brakes are the cheapest way to go and it's not like you're skimping out on quality either.

That's awesome, I appreciate the offer man. For some reason I assumed you were in the bay area. I'm going to make it a winter project so it might be a couple months or even early spring before I start on it but I'm trying to do my research and assemble everything now so the car doesn't get stuck...

Thanks blu, good info there. I have 14" rims so I'm definitely going to stick with what I've got. Unfortunately the guy who sent me the parts sent me everything he had so he didn't have the MC lines either. I've been researching and it looks like I can buy premade lengths of fuel line at Napa...

Thanks for the response but I'm not really looking to spend more money and upgrade from what I've got. I was just wondering if I had to get new brake lines from the MC down to the prop or if the drum brake lines will work since I'm staying with manual brakes?

I just received a 73+ conversion in the mail yesterday and I'll be going through it this weekend. I want to get everything ready (including suspension kit) so I can just knock it all out at once on my 67 Barracuda. I was wondering what brands of Calipers and Rotors are any good? I'm not looking...

I've blown all the lines out but I didn't take the distribution block out and mess with that yet. The MC is 1" bore. I've checked that already. The wheel cylinders I put in it are Raybestos WC34876 in the back Raybestos WC37102 and 03 in the front. When I bought them I went on RockAuto...

There isn't really any pumping action to it. There's about an inch of pedal play and then it's damn near as hard as a rock after that. It's not like my Duster where first thing in the morning the pedal travels farther than normal. Once I back out of the driveway and head down the street, the...

Thanks for the replies guys. Yeah I made a mistake calling it a prop valve but you know what I mean. I did measure the bore size when I put the MC in a few months ago and it was 1". It bleeds fine. Only problem is once the system gets most of the air out, the pedal becomes hard as a rock. I'm...

The one in the car right now has a 1" bore. Will going from 1" to 15/16" really make a noticeable difference?

You just need to bleed the brakes. 9" drums get a bad rap from everyone. They aren't nearly as bad as everyone acts like they are. I've been daily driving on them for 10 years now without a problem. Bleed them, don't tailgate and you'll be fine.

Did some work today on the brakes. I swapped all the drums and shoes from my 71 Duster on to the 67 Valiant and drove it around. The good news is that the brakes worked much better. What I mean is when you mashed on the pedal, the car really stopped. Before it would have to roll a little bit...