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I cosign with the above. Welding in a spare tire well is a lot of work for a second rate looking job when you're done. You might pay a couple hundred extra for the whole floor but the amount of time it takes to install it will be hours and hours less, while it will look a million times better.

Whatever option you choose, just don't attempt to encapsulate the tiny rust pits on your roof with any type of paint product. Use whatever type of gel/liquid rust remover to ensure you have clean metal and then epoxy over that. Too much time, work and money is involved with a vinyl top car to...

Always follow the manufactures recommendations. I don't know if you're going to get a whole lot of details from them on rattle can paint though. Priming first is a must. Are you repainting it black? I'd probably wet sand with 600 to ensure I'm not getting sand scratches.

I second this. I used SEM color coat with their adhesion promoter to paint a console, dash vents and kick panels and could not be happier with how they all turned out. Multiple light coats are the way to go. I noticed if you try and just go with medium coats to get it done quicker, you can...

You can get just the bottom of the well for like $150 from Sherman or Goodmark. If you go with a street sign or some other weird odd pieces to save $150, it'll cost you a lot more than $150 when it's resale time.

Username checks out.

I used Dorman years ago on my Duster and they seemed to hold up fine.

It would make a mess but I would probably spend 20 bucks on one of those guns that hold media and spray the rust out of the pits. Shouldn't take very long if the entire car isn't coated in them.

I'd use a chemical rust stripper and then Ospho afterward just to be safe. I think a wire wheel or blasting would blast right through that. That roof is done. I also can't tell if it's just an illusion or what but it looks like there's fairly large holes on the driver side as you get closer to...

Sounds like a good plan. I wish I could help better with the amount of paint needed because I struggle with that myself. I feel like a quart would be fine but the trunk seems to take more paint than you might think. If you're going with the Shop Line paint that Mac's sells, I've only used the...

I trust epoxy primer more than any other primer when painting over anything that seems sketchy. I've painted over factory and respray paint with it and I've yet to have a failure but I've only done this about 3 times so far. It's always a crap shoot but I don't think the odds are high that...

https://images.tcpglobal.com/sds-sheets/RSP/RSP-AL_TDS.pdf

My buddy helped me spray my engine bay and he paints cars for a dealership. He said it was more difficult to paint the engine bay than an entire car.

I took mine down to bare metal about 6 months ago before I sprayed. Was one of the least fun projects I've done on a car.

If it was me, I wouldn't touch it. That looks better than the majority of the engine bays out there. If you're going to wind up doing it the right way at some point down the line, I'd say it'll probably look more unnatural if you do a rattle can job right now. At least the way you have it, it...

I'd start with a clay bar like mentioned above. If it's rough because of the spray job (dry, gun being too far away) then the clay bar will have no effect. If it's rough because it's dirty, then you'll want to get that out before hand. I'd first hit it with a foam pad on a buffer and see if...

I'm not sure on the rallye mirror part but if you want to give it a go on keeping your mirror from flopping around, give it a soak in laquer thinner in one of those small harbor freight magnetic dishes. That should loosen up the factory glue enough to be able to pop the mirror out easily without...

My Duster has a locking cap so I just leave my keys in it and place it on top of the pump. Impossible to drive off without it that way.

Cars take up enough room as it is. Once you start pulling them apart, you realize you need an insane amount of room to store everything.

Good thing is that an email, phone call or post on the forum and the owner will give you a detailed description for why they say no go. Some of the best customer service in the business. Surprising that the epoxy doesn't jive with it. I figured you could shoot epoxy over oil and it would be fine.

https://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/documents/ppg/ob11+mp17x+series+epoxy+primers++02+16.pdf

Always go off of what the TDS sheet for your paint/primer says.

Sometimes the nostalgia, memories and connection to the car is worth more than the money.

I had a car where it looked like someone just opened the door up and slammed the edge into a wall. The edge of the door was pushed in about 1/2" from damn near the top to the bottom of the door. I was able to hammer and dolly it out to get it about 90% to where it needed to be. This is with no...

If it doesn't work out, I recommend POR 15 engine and manifold paint. Has held up very nicely for me and I brushed it on everything other than the valve cover.

You'll be able to see out of these a bit better.

I'd go into the parts car section of the forum and ask if anyone can cut it out and ship it to you. The good thing is that the hump doesn't really rust since water can't really pool up on it, so there should be plenty available. Could also fairly easily just make your own and bend it over your...

I have a Makita buffer and I used to detail at a dealership with it years ago. I wasn't a concourse detailer like a lot of the guys on the autogeek forum but I can still make a car look damn close to looking like it just rolled off the assembly line. Materials I use are the makita buffer, 3m...

I've been happy with the Eastwood products I've used but why try a roll on primer if you're planning on spraying your car at some point? If you already have the equipment, just spray it. Epoxy is easy and simple to spray and it's difficult to make mistakes. Also doesn't have as much overspray...

I'd use a stiff bristle brush with whatever cheap degreaser you want to use. Might take a couple cycles to make sure all the grease is out. Then I'd hit it with the DA sander and blow the dust out. Wash with Dawn soap. Wipe with auto body wax and grease remover and then a final wipe with 70%...