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Once again, have you checked vacuum?

I believe this is a common problem but it's been years since I looked it up. I believe Doug Dutra has a write up on it on slantsix.org if it is in fact the annoying leak from the front of the head issue.

First few times I did it cold and then with the engine warmed up but shut off and my engine always ran rough. Used slantsixdan's procedure and my engine ran much smoother. IMO it's easier to do it this way over the engine not running. People think they're going to get oil everywhere until they...

It was the threads in the crank that stripped out. I didn't notice it until I already had the engine rebuilt and went out to the garage to periodically turn it over while it sat on the stand. It felt weird, like the bolt was turning a little bit while the crank wasn't. Pulled the bolt out and...

Be careful getting too crazy turning the engine over this way. I wound up stripping the threads out of a crank one time by periodically turning it over while on the stand.

Do you have a vacuum gauge? I'm guessing you might have a vacuum leak. You can pick up a cheap one at harbor freight. 950rpm is pretty high at idle. I think the factory setting is closer to 750rpm in park and should idle around 550-600rpm in gear. If the engine stumbles and wants to die when...

Very cool! I made a more crude version out of a sheet of aluminum but I could not get the damn thing to seal up despite it being as flat as could be when tested with a straight edge.

Yeah of course. 16 year old me didn't have money for a V8 swap of any type, let alone a damn chebby.

I did what they said and dropped a 350 in it!

Put a 350 in it! At least that's what half the guys that talked to me at the gas station said to do when I first got my SL6 Duster.

You want a slight drag on the drum brakes. The rear drums shouldn't just pull right off with no force but you shouldn't feel like the shoes are gripping the hell out of the drums when pulling them off either. You should be able to feel that the drum and shoes are making contact when pulling the...

I don't think the aftermarket one will work nearly as well. The tapered part of the OE nut has a good amount of meat there to grip inside the washer. The aftermarket nut will basically just grip on the 90* edge of the slotted part of the nut with what looks to be like 1/15th of the surface area...

May have a vaccum leak. What's your vacuum like at idle in Park? My Slant has always idled about 750 in park and 550ish in gear. The only time it's ever idled in your range is when I've had a vacuum leak.

Yeah that's why I'm saying you need to machine them down as well as use the good gaskets.

Do this + the good gaskets and you'll be leak free.

No need to apologize. You didn't give him the answer he was looking for but your posts are very valuable for some of us when we're searching for answers and key words later on.

You should be better than that with an OD 833. Going from a 1bbl to a 2bbl, running HEI ignition and opening the exhaust to 2 1/4" took me from 15mpg to 21mpg and that's averaging 75mph on the freeway without traffic. It's still a slug compared to newer vehicles but the 2bbl actually helped me...

Make sure you don't have the dreaded leak at the front of the head that is difficult to find and requires removing the head to fix.

If I had to guess, I'd say you'll average about 18mpg. Usually you have to do some mods to get consistent 20-21mpg.

I would have just made something up instead of admitting the parking brake was on :D

I'll check this as one of my last resorts since it's more difficult to get to compared to a handful of other things I need to check. 71 Duster so no cats here and I removed all the emission stuff years ago. Yeah the plug and gap combo I'm running is what has been recommended on slantsix.org...

Just to throw out an update. It now runs full speed after changing the plug wires. Must have been too much resistance in one of them. They all look fine visually. Might put an ohm meter on them and see if there's anything noticeable there. The vacuum is still low so it seems like I have having...

I don't know how close it resembles the true factory color but I've been very happy with the POR 15 engine and manifold paint. Brushed it on everything, even the valve cover. You can see some brush strokes on the valve cover but it did a pretty good job of self leveling so they aren't really...

If a slant six won't run at TDC, then something is wrong. You probably aren't really at TDC when you think you are. Find the actual TDC instead of just lining up the harmonic balancer and you'll probably find out that you're off by quite a bit.

Thanks guys, I'll give it a shot while I'm waiting for the other parts to come in. I did notice that the cap had excessive wear on a couple of the terminals, which was odd.

I'm getting a full shot when I pull on the linkage but there's no harm in changing out the filter just in case. Would either of these issues rear its ugly head only in gear vs. at idle? Because I can rev it up to whatever I want in neutral without a hiccup. It's only in gear when the problem...

Thanks guys, I've got plugs, wires, cap, rotor and a coil on the way. Spark plug gap is .040 with the HEI ignition and MSD Blaster 2. Been running it this way for over 10 years with no issues.

This is a 225 with a Carter BBD, HEI ignition and NOS Mopar distributor. Drove it to work and everything was perfectly fine. Went to drive it home and it would stumble and die once I'd hit about 25mph. Seems to drive fine under that speed. It also idles the way it should in neutral. I can rev...

I think they're NGK ZFR5Ns. If they are then they're a very common plug for slants. One of the better ones according to .org.

I'd start with a simple valve adjustment and go from there. Cover the valve cover gasket in vaseline so you can remove it multiple times without it tearing if you need to.