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My Keyko arrived with no inside packing and it was bent everywhere. They did replace it with another one for me. They are a nice piece for the price!

These are the guys = Build All my transmissions! Now in Waco Tx. but still have same phone #.

Pro Trans in Waco Texas

A Glide is the right choice in a light and high HP race car. It is also cheaper to build for racing. I have raced several over the years. I used to own Reed Whisant's (Sic) Old Pro Stock Arrow. It had a 526 Bl in it and ran 8.21 @ 167 with a Glide at our bumpy old Vegas track about 30 years...

A Glide is the right choice in a light and high HP race car. It is also cheaper to build for racing.

That would be much better than ever letting it hook while spinning in 1st, That is the kiss of Death from Torqueflites!

I have always put it in neutral when prestaged and check the two step to make sure it is work and pump the brakes till they are rock hard. Never had an issue with that myself as of yet.

I start and finish off in 3rd gear even with my 318 cars. Never have a problem achieving a good burnout. I always lift while tires are still spinning. The problem with the 9/10 second Stock/SS cars is that they occasionally explode the tires 20 or 30 ft out if we hit a bald spot. If you do not...

Most of all the big explosions that I saw were in the 1960s when converters .were not very advanced and traction was limited = Often racers would neutral start their race cars with sometimes disastrous results. I have broken the sprag a number of times with both style valve bodies and never hurt...

I think you may have to take it apart and check/replace Planetaries.

I ran a Stock Eliminator race car for a number of years with an 8 1/4. But it was a good one with a spool/Aftermarket Axles/ and Chryo treated gears. It was 385 Flywheel HP. that I believe was about the limit of power for reliability for serious racing It is getting hard to find a selection...

My main building is 5000 ft with 2 two Posts and two 4 Posts, My boy has one of each in his shop at home. The ONLY good thing about getting old is not being poor anymore. But I miss being young!

I have had a different experience respectfully than Tom. I raced several Aspens in both Stock and Superstock years ago with the 8 1/4 that were 11 second cars. I broke several 8 1/4s and then the supply of Gears for that application totally disappeared everywhere (480/510 no longer available...

That is a 11 3/4 large converter = Very low stall.

We use Dr. Diff for much of our suspension and rear end needs. The savings might pay for the shipping costs?

ProTrans that build my transmissions for Street and race cars recommends Type F. I have been using it for 40 or 50 years and it seems to shift a bit firmer and the clutch discs usually look great when I rebuild it. I use the $5.00 fluid at Walmart and it works great = Never seen any difference...

Both Open and not worth a bunch. Look like 2.94 or 3.23 gears which are very common.

The 10 3/4 production converter such as in the 383 Roadrunner (Plus others) and 340 cars is rated around 2200 to 2300. Probably would be a fair bit higher in your in you big Inch Big block. They were very durable as produced. Also the 426 hemi converter were the same size but slightly...

Replace the ring gear! Hughes converters have been nothing but Junk for me. They have had terrible customer service for me. They have always found a way to deny warrantee coverage. I bought a converter from them and did not install it for several months as I finished the car. It did not work...

I am dealing on a 71 Demon Superstock in So Minnesota and may be heading your way in a couple weeks. If I do perhaps, we can make a deal and I will buy all the cases that you want to sell. If I do buy the car?

Type F is about $6. at Walmart. Does anyone know where to buy it cheaper? We have 10 race cars all with aluminum speciality internal Drums etc. and need to change them all every 20 runs to get the aluminum flakes out. The brand does not seem to make any difference anymore!

I do not think it would hurt anything especially on a Hot Rod application. As I recall, Type F has more friction components and shift a bit harder. I used it on all my older cars and race cars!

Perhaps Nitrous on the starter motor!

Most any converter shops will be able to replace the ring gear for much less than a new converter.

Years ago in my Dirt Cars = all I did was replace the 11 3/4 with the 10 3/4 and had good results without spending a ton of money for that application. Also kept from building up a lot of heat in the trans and killing it (Even with a good cooler).

The 46R is a stronger transmission especially for a Street/Strip car. Overheating should be no worse than a 727 particularly if you have a 355/391 or deeper gearing.

As I recall the 1964 was the last year B bodies had tapered axles and ball and trunnions.

Something has gotten loose somewhere along the line. Or Thrust on Crankshaft or bearing has gone South. Just possibilities. Hard to definitively diagnose from 300 miles North of you.

Torque Convertor rubbing on front pump housing in transmission?

You have the wrong flexplate = It is for an external balanced converter. Theer are several different ones. IF your engine is NOW internally balanced you need a full round neutral flexplate and a neutral balanced dampener! Pronto! Before you wipe out the thrust on the crank and the front pump...