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Excellent, thanks for the pointers, I appreciate them... I have the correct clamps for the fuel filter lines but two of them leaked when I installed them, so for safety sake I just used the spring style. I've still got to fix the (-) cable. Funny you say the wiper motor needs a resto -...

Finally got some decent weather so I could take some pictures. I know there's some work to be done but I think it's getting pretty close to where I want it to be. I guess there's always something that could be more original but, spending crazy amounts of money just to have date codes etc...

In comparison with most of the photos I've seen, it seems (with the exception of the idle solenoid) my engine bay is pretty darn close to being how Ma Mopar set it up. I don't have the idle solenoid hooked up because when I got the car it had an Edelbrock carb already installed. The car runs...

My car was originally sold at Spartan Dodge in San Jose - and is coded N95. I have the speedo sensor and the other emissions parts on the cowl and the back of the pass side valve cover. The above photos are helpful but only to a point. There's a whole lot that is incorrect too (along with...

As far as my car, no a/c. But it was built in Los Angeles so it has the CA emissions. The numbers matching engine is orange. The car's build date was the first few days of November, 1970. Thanks for the engine pictures. I've seen a number of similar engines but, I'm really interested in seeing...

Does anybody have any photos or website links they can share that show color photos of survivor or properly restored 71 340 engines? I've gone through quite a few magazines and been surfing the net - but I haven't found any complete sets of pictures of an original 71 340. :banghead: In the...

Thanks for checking. :D If my math is right, that is about 16.5 ft. lbs. I don't know if the model year makes a difference (mine is a 71) but 16.5 ft. lbs. sure seems more appropriate than 9ft. lbs. Unless I find something else that says otherwise, I'll go with the 16.5 ft lbs...

When I took off the crankshaft pulley the bolts seemed like they weren't very tight - in fact they felt like they were just snug. So I checked in one of my old manuals to see what they should be torqued at. And according to the Chilton book, the vibration dampener bolts should be torqued to...

Thanks for the advice - I'm gonna' get to work ASAP. As suggested, I'll try and remove it from underneath - there's probably more room. One last thing - does anybody happen to know the torque specs for the pulley bolts so I don't strip the threads in the harmonic balancer? Thanks again...

I was thinking about painting my crank pulley since it looks pretty dingy. My questions for those that have removed that pulley, is it a pain to get the crank pulley off and then reinstall? I've never removed one - I believe there's six bolts? Anyway, I don't know if the bolts are torqued...