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I would say that unless you have the corresponding cam gears and matching chains to the crank gears; you have just so much scrap metal; they sell them as sets for a reason.

Manley??

Buy an old 410 sprint car engine

Although I do not have personal experience of that particular book; in the past I have found books printed by S-A designs to provide adequate information. In my experience, I read everything I could get my hands on. The Mopar Performance engine book is an excellent source, as is "How to Hot...

11.10, 120.48 mph, 360, Eddy heads, Thorley D-Dart headers, 1 5/8 inch tube, 2.5 collector, 3030 with me in it, 65 Barracuda

Here is something else to think about..............what is the diameter of your crank pulley, what is the diameter of your alternator pulley? Years ago I was having the same problem of throwing belts, it came down to 2 things: 1. the drive ratio of crank pulley to alternator was 1 to 2, so...

Fluid film it, bag it, strap it to a hand truck, put it in your basement next to your furnace, keep it warm

To jump a tooth requires a slack chain; find out how much slack you have in your chain. remove your distributor cap, put a ratchet on the crank bolt, start with the damper on "0" slowly rotate the crank until the rotor just starts to move; remember/write down number, rotate the crank back in...

I went back and dug out my time slips from 2007 when I ran a Teener; specs of car and engine are listed in 12 second combinations. I guess your times in the 1/8 will be high to mid 8's

Maybe 375HP, maybe low 8's, high 7's

I would not hone....no need to, ring is already seated

Here's a question I hope some one can answer.........If a ring is seated to a cylinder bore, how can it's removal from that cylinder and then it's re-installation to that bore ruin it's seal?? I realize I'm the heretic in this discussion; some one has to do it.

I'll get killed for this, I say go for it. Learn something, the acquisition of knowledge is not with out effort; when done you will know with certainty if it can be done. As already stated put the rings back in the same hole they came out of, think "how does a ring know it came out of it's...

Been there, done that. You are not the first person to do something like this and you won't be the last. as already stated, if you got it as clean as possible, you're golden.

I had a set in a 500hp 360, spun it to 7 thou on a regular basis. What pistons are you planning to use? They are quite a bit lighter than stock rods, you will need to balance your rotating assembly.

Your first crank, the mains have been cut .010 as they measure by your account 2.49, standard is 2.50, with no pictures I can not tell you if it is cast or forged; you can figure that out just by looking at it; (reference your 360 crank parting line is narrow, cast) wide parting line (forged)...

I ran a Comp XTQ281S-6; stock rotator, milled 360 heads.........

I'd say you pretty much hit the nail on the head........your fix is to pull the engine, tear it down and sleeve the cylinder(s)

What do you consider high RPM?

If you can, do a leak down test, it tells a better story of condition of your short block

This is kinda funny from the stand point of the 340 purists beating the drum of how a 340 can rev..........

360.......built using equal parts to a 340, it will make more power.......it's got 20 more cubic inches which could means it's got 20 more horse power........how much RPM eather one will turn is immaterial, RPM coasts money, get it right, you're a hero, get it wrong you're left crying over a...

If it were me, I'd use liquid Teflon to seal the threads

Look for a collapsed exhaust lifter

Don't grind a hole into the push rod pinch..............

Here's another option if you don't want to tear into it.............install it in the car and drive it just the way it is, if you like it, yippee you scored a home run; if you don't, THEN you can tear in to it and change it to something more to your liking

Probably factory stockers if there are no stamping s on eathere end; try to get a measurement of lobe lift and go from there.

I've always had good luck with Permatex Aviation on the block rails for the pan gasket, the rubber end seals I have used Permatex ultra black

Get a fuel pump gasket, trace it on a piece of sheet metal, make your own......easiy-peazy

Just re-read your first post and it makes me wonder where you get your information...........302 casting heads did not come on 360's