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Hit the nail right on the head

That's called "manufacturing tolerances", +/- some "X" amount

Agree, all the ones I've taken apart ( 5-6 ) all had real thick heavy grease on them...........to get back to the original question.......YES, loosen the adjusters for reassembly; get a ride height measurement BEFORE dissembly Good luck!

OK.........if that is the case, measure ride height before disassembly......though I'm not sure how they would reassemble the car not relaxing the tension........that kind of wrestling knocks cars off jack stands

Yes, what makes you think you do not have to?

Stock straps are as strong as anything that is out there, never had a problem with them

What year car? As I work foggy memory, that looks to be for 68 and up vehicles. The one end is pinched between upper and lower brackets on "K" member by the bolt shown, the other end ( the taper ) goes into the center link, torque the nut to spec and insert cotter pin. The end pinched in the...

FWIW....MP 3/4 inch off set shackles, front hangers, moved spring pads, 275/60x15 M/T Drag radials, 15x8 rims with 4 1/2 inch BS, rolled the lip of the wheel opening

Your "K" member could be bad. Holes for the LCA pivot bolts crack, fracture etc, not uncommon in Mopars in general.

Possibilities.........rebuild steering box, rebuild/replace steering coupler, make sure pitman arm is good, inspect 'K" member for broken welds, guesset the box mount to remove flex... it is possible to get good steering out of the factory stuff, research "The Green Brick" Ehrenberg did...

Yup, happened on my Barracuda when I did them; I figured 2 things, uneven garage floor and flimsy body. I realigned door.

Suspension wise you can build the cars identically, T-bars, brakes, springs, sway bars. Some thought towards tire and wheel selection. Looks to be that both cars are hard tops and therefore about equal as far as body stiffness, if one was a post car, I'd lean towards that. Yes, the early "A"...

Low buck press is your bench vice so long it is big enough to do the job. With new bushing in hand, go to your local Hardware store, look thru the pipe fittings to find nipple long enough and large enough inside diameter to act as a "receiver" for the old bushing as you push it out. Also look...

No bearing adjuster locks...................................??

First and second order of business..........weigh the car, the folks at Calvert will want to know that number, while you are at it get the front to rear split. With the car sitting on its tires an a level surface, pick a reference point on the car at all four corners OR, call Calvert and ask...

Just about any NLGI#2 grease you can buy, as stated it's not that critical.

You can loosen nut on LCA stud and push/wack the LCA back, what ever you are comfortable doing.

Rustolium satin black

Another thing.........upper ball joints screw in, DO NOT try to press them out.... need a special socket to R&R the joint, best done while the upper control arm is still on the car due to the leverage needed to remove them and install new, also there are 2 different sizes......73 SHOULD be large...

As already said, back the adjusters off on the lower control arms, there is a retaining clip located in the cross member in the rear that need to come out. Mopar did make a service tool for removing T-bars that you can hammer against to knock the bars out of the sockets; you can make your own...

You don't mean Volarie do you?? You can make the steering knuckle fit, but that is about it. You need to back up a couple of years and stick with an "A" body.

Your thinking is correct, a bow is not normal; or at least I've never seen a set bowed.

Yes it is something you can do at home, as in all things patients is the key word. A friend of mine did the steering boxes in both 65 and 66 Darts, they worked out well. Some place in my library I have a copy of "Mopar Action" where E_burg rebuilt the steering box in the Green Brick. What I...

Oh don't be so hard on yourself.................that's what we are here for..............

Do I know with 100% certainty; no.......My best guess is nothing serious happened other than not knowing your left from your right. Not being able to adjust ride height makes sence now knowing that bars were swapped side to side, the pre-set twist in the bars from the factory was canceling out...

You could always put a spacer under the engine mounts to raise the engine up to clear, 1/4 inch thick piece of flat stock would probably do it.. The fact of the 273 oil pan not fitting the 360 has nothing to do with crank shaft journal sizes..........the difference is the shape of the rear...

One probability is that the "K" member has cracked welds at the LCA piviot. You won't know unless you pull the control arms out. It's a sorta common thing on high mileage cars. Good luck, hope it's something else.