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No gasket, just metal to metal

One other thing, you will need to remove shifter and linkage

Sorry to be a downer, you're gonna have to drop the trans; disconnect the exhaust so you can put some rearward tilt to engine to remove bell housing

The car is a 72, not need to worry about B & T drive shaft

A transmission, shifter and linkage, correct length drive shaft, maybe a different bell housing. I say maybe as your's may be dual pattern for both 3 and 4 spd transmissions. You'll need to get under the car and look.

If only I had a rear hoop...................

What's wrong with going a little over kill...........drive shaft failure is not something to be put down the list of priorities to be worried about.........about the time you have one come up thru the floor it will change your perspective dramatically...........**** happens fast do your best to...

Yes, there are 3 different retainer diameters, 4.354 inches (most common ), 4.807 inches (OD 4 spd diameter 1975 model year), 5.125 inches ( OD 4 spd diameter) info from the MP chassis book

Stick with a car bell housing; a truck housing has a larger register opening, and is generally larger over all which could cause tunnel clearance problems....... FYI, original bell housing for that car is cast iron.

To the OP.......It sounds as though you have the engine out of the car, you could have just hefted the FW up into place on the back of the engine and attempted to bolt it up, you had a 1 in 6 chance to get it the first time, had it NOT lined up you then had the opportunity to keep trying till...

The flywheel will only bolt on correctly one way for, all six bolts to line up

Neutral balance fly wheels will have holes (small ones) drilled into them..........that's how they got to be a neutral balance fly wheel.

Ask the tranny guy to put the main shaft between a set of centers, put a dial indicator on it and spin it around. Main shaft is a big hefty piece of steel, can't quite see how it got warped.........yes those gears look bad!!

Yes and yes. What Rusty said X2

Not that this would be the "be all, end all" of decision making though it would be a quick call; the 10.5 bell housings are aluminum, the 9.5 are cast iron.

Not all cranks from the factory were drilled for a 4spd pilot bushing, as you have found; the hole that is there is a rough drilling operation, like a center drill operation. Find a shop that will turn the OD of your bushing down .040 which would leave you a .001 press fit. Make sure the hole...

I'll give it a shot......... I was into one of these decades ago, and it seemed like it took hours. Any one else??

Trying to put the side cover back on to a 70-73 833; it's got that funky bar linkage on the inside of the cover; not the nice ball and detente set up. What's the trick for putting the cover back on?? Thanks in advance. Jim Burch

If it was all together once before, there should be no reason to take .100 off the end of the tranny input shaft. Sounds like a simple case of misalignment of clutch disk. If foggy memory serves me right, the mounting bolts for the tranny to the bell housing are 7/16-14 UNC, get 2 or 3 long...

Doug Nash did make a race version of the 5spd, no syncro's, not to be street driven, you'll wreck the tranny cuz it doesn't like to be down shifted while rolling. You'll need to get another bell housing cuz the bolt pattern is not the same as an 833, or T-10, or top loader. 3 holes will line...