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I'm not sure if it is a fitted piece of foam in the holes, but they do need to be sealed so water doesn't leak into the car. I usually put a thin layer of seam sealer on the backside of the hinge and then gob those square holes full of plumbers putty before putting the bolts in from the...

I prefer to paint the jams, engine compartment including the bottom of the hood, floor pans and roof interior, trunk including bottom of decklid, and the bottom of the car along with the front wheel wells and back sides of the fenders. Then assemble the body and mask off anything you've already...

The tabs on the top corners of my 65 grill are broken and gone. I've got a plan in my head to make new ones and attach them to the grill with panel bond adhesive. I like my twin post mirrors too. :)

I'd about bet that they did that to make attachment points where the top corner tabs are always broken on those grill centers. Looks good on the red car, but I think it would look better if the grill center was black instead of red. I'm kinda digging the later model remote chrome mirror add on...

Wish I could be more help. Not sure how long ago it was posted, or by who. The guy who did it posted in great detail for a while, then just fell off the face of the earth without showing the end result. That was a shame, because it was going surprisingly well.

Several years ago, someone on here put a new AMD floor pan for a 67 & up A body into an early A. Best I remember, they had to trim the outer edges by the rocker panels off just a little, then had to make the top of the transmission tunnel at the firewall match up. I don't remember if the tunnel...

There.....I fixed it for you. :poke: :lol:

I didn't read them, but if that's the case the extra $20 is worth it not to have to do it over. Rustoleum has a pretty good rep!

Yep, that will work. Scroll down in that link and there is a different brand that is the same thing....$20 cheaper. The Catalyst you put in it is down there towards the bottom too. It should be brushable too.

If you don't already have one, you can buy a cheap spray gun at Northern Tool or Harbor Freight to spray it with. Those purple guns at Harbor Freight do an excellent job for the money. :thumbsup:

Are you going to blast it clean, or just clean it up and paint it? If you blast it, spray it with epoxy primer like PPG DP90LF, let it sit for a day and then spray your color right over the top of....no need to even sand it within that time frame between epoxy and paint. If you're just gonna...

@gunbunny might be able to decipher it.

My wife is a quilter, and she is VERY good at it. She has enough fancy sewing machines that her sewing rooms look like a machine shop....lol. She also has one of those big industrial Juki sewing machines that could sew through a car tire. My plan is, to buy the material I need and then tell her...

It appears to be the correct bumper for the car. The bolts in the pic are indeed where the bumper brackets bolt to the frame rails. I bet, if you look around you will find the bumper brackets. Your Grandpa probably had them stashed somewhere if he bought a new bumper. Us old guys never throw...

Dip it first and see what you have before you do any cutting. I'd replace the whole floor pan. I have a 69 Dart GT conv that is a Flintstone mobile also..lol. I already have the full AMD floor to put in it. It will be less welding to replace the full floor, and you will gain valuable welding...

That looks like factory undercoating, or the car got rustproofed at Ziebart when it was new. Either one is tough to get off! I'd do just like you plan to do, with the epoxy primer and raptor liner. No need to use etch primer if you're using epoxy primer. Like mentioned above, just make sure all...

Wait? The song says "It never rains in California....." :lol: The cheaper panels will be fine to cut for patch pieces. Back in the days before repro sheet metal, I patched a lower rear section of a Superbird quarter panel with the bottom of a door skin from a 77 Dodge pickup. Lower body line...

Get it at an auto paint supply store instead of the Wal Mart stuff. Open the edges of the outer part of the holes a little and taper them back some so you can feather the filler out. If you just leave the outer edges sharp and round, Stevie Wonder will be able to see it when you're done....lol...

My opinion because I'm pretty partial to it, but SPI Epoxy primer is the best. Buy a whole gallon kit if you're going to do the whole car. It can be thinned to use as a sealer also. If you're in need of epoxy primer pretty quickly and don't want to wait on shipping, my 2nd choice would be PPG...

@doug 371 nailed it. If you haven't seen it, check out the video in the link below. Great info there to prevent a leak! https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/is-your-67-76-a-body-windshield-leaking.555001/

Devilbiss makes some good guns for the money. I have a Devilbiss Techa Pro Lite, which is pretty much the same gun as listed above. It makes me look like a better painter than I really am....lol. I just wish I had enough experience to know more about mixing and spraying according to temp and...

I sent a request for Steve's video thread to be made a STICKY, so it doesn't get shuffled down to page 97 where nobody will see it.

Fitzee is the first place I go on You Tube to learn how to do panel welding. He makes his butt cuts at a 45 degree angle and they lay right together. I'd probably go to work for him for free for a month just to learn! :thumbsup:

Thanks Steve. I learned something new today! :thumbsup:

I had an aluminum 25 gallon tank made to go in my Duster with a flat trunk floor with no spare tire hole. I was all gung ho to put in a 5.7 Hemi with factory fuel injection, but changed my mind. Never used it and now it's just sitting in the basement since I won't use it with a carbed 340.

It sands about like concrete! Best bet is to get the top down to bare metal, treat the pits with rust remover like Evaporust or Rust 911 and them put epoxy primer on it.

O'Reilly's....as in O'Reilly's parts store? I never knew they sold paint, other than spray bombs on aisle 6....lol.

X 3 for Tom Race @ RT Specialties. :thumbsup:

Great if you can go get it! AMD is like TTI, in that they set the price that their vendors can sell for. Most of the savings is always in the shipping. If you're close enough....cha ching! If I need metal, I either buy it from Ted Stephens and go to AMD warehouse in GA to pick it up, or Ted...

It looks like the bottom edge of your tail light panel may be bent down, which would push everything up.