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So that's what the single speed fan draws, good info. Pretty sure the 2 speed pulls almost double that, but again it flows 4800CFM or so, lots of air! Those fans sure look like they were made for that champion radiator after mounting them for damn sure!!

I say run the first one and send the other back!

Is it pulling or pushing air? Does it make sounds even if you reverse the direction it spins? Swap + and - to get it to spin opposite way.

Guys are funny. Everyone says American made is better......Lol it seems that 90% of everything we buy is imported..... The American worker is LAZY as hell. 20% of the american work force does 80% of the work. The others screw everything up and make us all look bad. Sad but true fact the 80% are...

CFM Comparison..... Still looking for amp draw comparison http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350404

Add an electric fuel pump, other accessories and a stock alternator is done, especially at Idle. I know this for sure. I just put a 100amp alt on my scamp, big difference in how the fuel pump sounds at idle too! Mine too has the bypass and wiring mods. I had the stereo, Fuel Pump, NOS Fuel...

Pretty sure the Taurus fan draws about 40 amps on full tilt boogie. Your stock alternator probably had a stroke trying to keep up! I hope you are using Relay's and pulling power straight from the battery. If you are going through the bulkhead you are asking for major problems.

Too fast thru the engine is a fact...... Have you ever looked at a Nascar or Winston Cup set up? Their upper radiator hoses are super small like 1.25" compared to our 2+ " Hoses. There is definitely something to be said on that subject.

For what it is worth, I don't run a thermostat on mine. I have different pulley's to slow the water down and a big cross flow aluminum radiator with an 8 blade PRW mechanical water pump, Fiscous fan & NO Shroud along with a 29PSI Cap. Mine runs 175* most all of the time no matter how hard I beat...

I gap my plugs @ .032. All these guys have some good ideas to check also. Ill pm you my contact info.

NGK 7373 otherwise known as FR5 would be the plug to try with your set up.

I will be in my shop from 7am tomorrow until 10 pm or so. It's most likely going to rain tomorrow. If it don't rain bring it by and we will see if we can figure it out. If not we can shoot for another day. Is your timing locked out @ 36* or do you run initial? If you do run initial timing what...

My 410 SBM runs at 170- 185* no thermostat and straight water. Aluminum Radiator , mechanical Viscious Fan & No Shroud with Iron heads. I live pretty close to you so it should be a good comparison. My initial timing is 24* and 34* all in, no vac advance. Sounds to me like it may be running fat...

You can also go to napa and look in their book to line one up that works with no mods. Did this before. Brought the old bypass hose as reference. They ordered the hose and I got it the same day.

Sounds like above When heat is in it the pressure is finding its way into the crack. Some good epoxy would probably fix your problem. You may even be able to do it in the car with the Manifold/headers pulled back or off.

Have your factory heads been ported at all? Maybe they got close to the water and now it has cracked?

Every timing cover set I have bought has came with the crank seal in it. Yes it does...... See Linkieee http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-TCS65631

True, I had a broken trans cooler fitting that was broke off past flush on the case. Tried an EZ out and within couple turns that broke off also....... What to do?? So I fired up the tig welder and welded a Hardend Nut to the ez out. The ez out was past flush also so i had to build the weld up...

Good grounds and increase the timing to about 14-16* initial. Get the timing right and then tune the carb.

Yeah Dave it is already here and Russell would be correct it would cost more to make one.

I already had about 1/4" of spacers behind the water pump pulley and the Crank Trigger I am using is 1/4" Thick. So what I am doing is taking out the 1/4" Spacer behind the water pump pulley and setting the new 1/2" spacer in there which will make it line up with the lower pulley that will have...

I ended up ordering this one from Summit, Jegs delivery date was set for 11/25/2011 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-504/

Going with a crank trigger sandwiched between the Crank Pulley and the Damper. The Wheel is 1/4" Thick. I already have 1/4" of washers for spacers behind the Water Pump Pully so the 1/2" Spacer I posted up should hopefully get them to line up perfect. Using Electric Fans on this set up so No...

I guess this would more than likely do the trick, as long as it doesn't hit the back of the pulley somewhere. http://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-a-lite/400/504/10002/-1?parentProductId=

What do you guys do when you need to space the water pump pulley out further than the centering pin on the water pump? Does someone make a spacer for this or do I need to fabricate my own? I need one right at 1/2"..... Do I just space it and not worry about the centering pin?

Got the water pump made by PRW today. Seems to be the exact one the Edelbrock sells for more $$. Quality Piece. Check out the Raised areas and the tunnels to and from the impeller. It has 6 Blades. I think with a design like this there would be less cavatation & more flow than a normal pump.

I ended up buying this pump here..... http://www.prwonlinestore.com/1431800.aspx

Is your Lower Radiator hose collapsing? Sounds like its possible. Put a Spring in it or go get a good hose that is thick walled. Or like crackedback says "put a soup can in it with a coat hanger wrapped around it" surely it will not collapse like that!

I would buy this one before the Edelbrock. Looks exactly the same except the Eddy one says Eddy for another 40 bones. I bet its the same part except casted with the edelbrock logo. PRW..... http://www.prwonlinestore.com/1431800.aspx Eddy...

I think Scott just installed an electric pump.