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Maybe not ideal to have the backside of the bearing being washed in gear oil either. Could potentially leak through the bearing internally as opposed to just around the edges.

Is there a chance the case might just have some kind of warp/defect in it? Maybe the carrier bearings aren't seating right or the place where they mount is somehow out of tolerance?

Okay, new question. If I want to heat up the new front bearing to make it a little easier to install, how high can I take it in an oven? I have a little toaster oven instead of my mom's big main over, but about the lowest it will go is maybe in the 200 range. I can always try to pull it out...

Just out of curiousity, how are you supposed to press on the outer bearing while installing the pinion? Seems like you'd have a hard time setting preload and it would be one unwieldy monster to try to hold the housing while pressing on the outer bearing. You wouldn't even need the pinion nut...

Yeah, on my old pinion that surface is just starting to pit some, so the bearing fits on pretty easy. I figured I should at least be able to get it started by hand, but I can't even get it that far on the new one. Looks like I'll just have to get out some emery and ease it up just a little.

So before I screw up my new bearing and gear set, I have a question regarding the front pinion bearing. I got out my old set of bearings that I ground down so I could slip fit to check pinion depth, and I had a hard time getting them to fit on my new pinion. I know the inner bearing is a press...

Ah, whoops, I didn't pay enough attention the company. Doesn't Keisler already have a TKO install kit? From what I've heard Keisler more or less just sources the parts from somewhere like American Powertrain anyway, so you could get a list of parts from the kit and ask them directly and see...

Maybe the dropped it in favor of the RS series stuff they are promoting that's supposed to be a straight bolt in? I know they have the RS for the B and E body stuff, and I thought I heard rumor they were going to make one for an A body, but I haven't seen any news on it in a long time. Can't...

Not that it helps tremendously, but I swapped my 8 1/4 out for an 8 3/4 and the length was pretty much the same between the two. I ended up getting a new shorter shaft because the one that was in it was too long to begin with, but I'm pretty sure the fit was "equally bad" between the two rear...

Is that an E body pistol grip handle or a B body one? I've debated getting one for some time now on my 4 speed but would like to get some measurements of the differences between the two to make a little cardboard mock up or something to see where the handle will be in different gears. The...

Fair enough. I did my best to check the wear pattern with marking compound when I put it all back together and got what looked to be a pretty good pattern, but I agree that it won't ever be what it was. The pinion was pretty lose when I took it out, so I imagine it probably wore funny and...

I just recently rebuilt my rear end with new bearings and seals and what not, but have run into an interesting issue. I thought the gears were in decent shape when I took the case apart, though the front pinion bearing was fairly loose when I took the center section out, so it may have been a...

How about sending a center section out? What does that typically run for labor (I'd get the gears myself)? I'm thinking I trashed my pinion pretty bad when the nut came loose on it, so I figure I'll probably look into new gears if I manage to find the right housing I want.

Did you consider welding some tubes into the upper crossmember where the bolts go through? I'm sure the 1/4" is pretty dang stiff, but it would help to keep the crossmembers from collapsing if you crank the bolts down too much.

Okay, thanks for the info. Do you think you could measure from the face of the bellhousing back to the mounting pad? That might give me a good enough idea as to how different the two transmissions might be.

Did you end up drilling a new hole in the factory crossmember to bolt your new setup to? I've seen other T56 swaps that have to cut out the upper portion of the crossmember and it looked like they had to cut one of the bolt holes out. I like this setup because I don't have subframe connectors...

Yep, I had one installed in my car when I bought it. Trying to sell it off now, lol. They swapped the whole rear suspension, which doesn't exactly fit because it's the wrong shock style (bayonet end on the axle side that was binding bad on hard bumps), but that way they didn't have to change...

As the title suggests, I'm looking into replacing the gear set on my 8.75 rear end. I bought a bearing kit for it and put it in a while back with the old gears, but it's been making a lot of noise since and I'm pretty sure the gears are fairly trashed by now. The pinion but backed out on me...

Yeah, that was certainly going through my head when I was trying to pull the thing out. Luckily I still have pretty flexible hands and could get wrenches on bolts just enough to get them to go, not sure how easy it's going to be to try to fish them back in though. Gravity is helpful when...

Yeah, I've got some universal/wobble joints. The exhaust bolts actually weren't too hard to get out aside from one rounding the head. It was mainly the stupid gussets they put on the front end of the trans that were the major pain. It's a 4WD, so I have a full size front axle in the way and...

Hmm, would it be a bad idea to try to blow some compressed air through the cooler lines to see if they have any junk in them or would I be asking for trouble? Got the trans all back together tonight, hoping it will go in a little easier now that I know what to expect. Planning on just cutting...

Overall the trans looked okay. The pan had a little metal in it and one clutch pack looked like it might have gotten a little toasty, but no friction material was flaking off or anything. Overall it seemed like it was in pretty good shape, fluid was still somewhat red, though maybe just a...

It's got two solenoids on it. And the spring that broke was the 3-4 accumulator spring that's in the valve body. Got one in town for a few bucks. Shouldn't make a huge difference, but maybe I'll get lucky. I figured I should probably blow apart the valve body, but haven't convinced myself...

It is a lockup, I got it all apart yesterday and can see the lockup solenoid in the trans. Found out the accumulator spring was broken, so I need to try to find one of those somewhere. Otherwise it didn't look too bad inside. There was a little metal in the pan, but the fluid wasn't all the...

Thanks! I appreciate any help I can get. It seems like there would have to be some signal to trigger the lockup, but there's only two plugs on the trans, one for the reverse lights / neutral/park safety, and one other two pin one. I was thinking it was the speedo at first since there isn't...

Well, pressure does check out okay. The only gauge I could come up with only went to 200, so I didn't push the limits, but I hit around 160 with a little power braking, so I figured it was good. The main reason I'm rebuilding the trans is because of some weird behavior that I'm trying to...

Thanks for the pictures, that's exactly what I needed, lol. Been on the phone all morning trying to track down a gauge around here. Think I came up with something, taking a look at everything under the truck now. Would it hurt to just pull the kickdown line without revving the engine or will...

Okay, thanks for all the info. I'll have to dig around and see if I have access to any gauges that will go that high. Pretty sure most of the stuff I have laying around maxes at 80 or so. Maybe I can get a loaner from the parts store or something. Nice to see there are easy ports to access...

How exactly do you check the pressure and what reading should I be looking for? What all fittings and tools might I need? I figured I would just try to T into the cooler lines, but I didn't know if that would be the same pressure that's in the transmission for the clutches and bands.

Cool, thanks for all the info, that should help a fair bit. I seem to have a knack for working on all the vehicles that have goofy one year only parts or mid year changes. My brother's other Dakota is a 2000 or 01, I can't remember, but his front axle stripped the splines and I got the...