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That sounds maybe a little on the heavy side for the engine, but I don't know what all you're including either. I've heard closer to 700 pounds for the Viper on, not sure about the truck V10 (iron block vs. aluminum). Either way I think you'd be okay, they have some pretty hefty torsion bars...

From the sound of it you get rack and pinion steering as well. There's no saying whether it will help out with header clearance or not depending on where everything is placed, but it should free up some room in the bay at least. Not terrible for a price either compared to a lot of the others...

Looking into getting a new set of rear leafs for my 5.7 Hemi swap and wanted to see if I could get some extra information regarding spring heights and selection. I was wondering if anyone would be willing to take some measurements so I could determine the appropriate springs to pick. My car...

I guess my big issue was I had no idea what to tell the alignment shop when I got it done. I can understand that the tire technology and style has a lot to do with how the car reacts and what sort of settings it likes. I can't really blame the shop for using stock specs since that's what they...

What are the stock specs and what do people suggest setting them to instead? I realize that this a fair deal of personal preference, but is there a typical range that a large percentage of people tend to fall in? I have stock suspension on my front end and don't plan to replace it, but if I...

The Dakota one I believe mounted the rack through the K frame similar to the 73+ sway bar. I think there was some concern as to limited steering angle though. Was a pretty clean and easy setup from the looks of it. I think it was a front steering setup, so you may have needed to do something...

I know on my idler arm I ended up putting in an extra washer inside between the cage and the idler arm when I installed it. When I first put the idler arm in the box mount there was a fair amount of gap, so when I tightened the bolt it flexed the box pretty hard to pull it together and the arm...

Nope, I've got plain poly replacements with no offset. I never thought about the stiffer/softer tires affecting geometry like that, but it does make sense. I set the ride height and had the car aligned after I did the engine swap and they managed to get it real close to stock specs. One side...

Yeah, that crossed my mind. I think I may take them out tomorrow and loctite them before I do any significant driving. A faster gear set is sounding a little more appealing. I still have a "soft" zone around center on the steering wheel (not much for resistance that you can feel), but if you...

Well, looks like the main culprit was the box mounting bolts. Apparently they backed out pretty bad in the year I've had the box in the car. The single outside bolt wasn't horrible, but the two inside bolts had backed out to a noticeable gap. Tightened them up and cranked the wheel a few...

Yeah, assuming I can snake it through the headers. Since I have the 5.7 the heads are pretty wide and sit almost over the box some. I took a look at it though and I think with the pitman arm off I may just be able to slide it over toward the fender enough to pull it up and out. Have to get a...

Lol, I haven't quite gotten around to fixing it yet, though I did wiggle the steering shaft some at lunch to see if there was noticable play in it. There is a little bit of give in the coupler between the box and column, but until I can hold the coupler solid and try turning the wheel to see...

Ah, that makes some sense on the adjustment procedure. I've got 10 little ton hydraulic jack style press, so that shouldn't be a problem assuming I can get access where I need it. I was looking at the Firm Feel kits and trying to decide what I wanted to do. I could almost get one of their...

Just to clarify in case people have the wrong mental picture, it feels like a quarter turn of slop total, not 1/4 turn either direction, so more like an 1/8 of a turn from center before it hits any noticeable resistance. If you turn it till it just hits resistance the car may drift a little one...

I rebuilt the whole front end when I swapped the engine out, so I'm pretty sure everything is in good shape. Did new poly upper bushings, rubber lowers, new strut rod bushings, and new upper ball joints. This was mainly because I actually had a lot of the parts sitting around from a previous...

So now that I've got the 5.7 humming along nicely in the car it's actually pretty pleasant to drive aside from the rather wandery steering. I've tried adjusting the preload using the sector shaft screw on the top of the box, but it's still pretty bad. I have a good quarter turn or so of the...

Is it possible to do a straight arm with rod ends instead of the standard bushings? Might be nice for those of us that need the extra alignment adjustment without having to go offset bushings.

I think technically as long as you get a matched idler and pitman you can use either the 68-72 stuff or the 73+ style. The only difference between the two is one has the centerlink on top of the arms and the other below (someone please correct me if I'm wrong). Pretty sure the link is in the...

For what it's worth I think the window cranks are also one year only. The 67 ones are all metal with metal handles, the later ones went to rubber handles. Probably one of the few things I prefer about the older stuff, the handles are way more solid and less prone to bending. May be in even...

The 67 windshield gasket uses a combination lock strip/trim piece to fasten it in. Very few if any vendors are making the lock strip aftermarket, and I don't believe anyone is remaking the gasket right now, so if it's pretty crispy or leaky you'd have a hard time replacing it with a 67 piece...

The only thing I've really heard that's 67 only is in the steering, and just the idler arm at that. The pitman arm is common up to 72 I believe (from what Mancini sells at least). Pretty sure the spindles and control arms and what not are pretty much all the same and swappable to later years...

Yeah, it doesn't matter how thick the pinion is if they all have a step transition in the diameter, that's going to be the weak point every time aside from some defect in the metal. The only reason I'd consider changing from my 741 is because you can barely buy any gears for it. The only...

I actually had an F body rear installed in my 67 Dart when I bought it. It was pretty much the same dimensions as a B body. I want to say around 56" flange to flange off the top of my head, but not 100% sure on that. The perches are pretty much the same width as B body too, but they have the...

They did a rebuild of a steering box on MuscleCar on Spike TV (weekend car show) several weeks back. You might check their website and see if it was one of the episodes that you can view online. It looks like a pretty involved process just because of all the parts and bearings and things, but...

I saw a pretty big ride improvement when I put my shocks on, but then again I also fixed the lower mount. It had the F body bayonet setup on it and I think it might have been binding. Now it feels like it rides on, well, air, lol. I'm only running maybe 40 psi too, that's really all the more...

I think there was a big writeup comparing all sorts of different pinions across brands somewhere, I want to say it was a tech archive somewhere. I think it was Dr. Diff that did the writeup. One thing I think I remember being in there is that the 741 still has the same size if not bigger...

Here's what I came up with for now. Hopefully the pictures aren't too bad or hard to make out. I just welded a piece of angle iron at the very bottom corner of the stock isolator box setup. The angle iron piece is probably about 1.5 to 2 inches long. For the mount bolt I think I used a 5/8"...

Haha, I wish, I'm settling for drums on the back for now, just don't have the money or the will to really mess with something. I'm really not a welder or anything because my little flux wire welder is pretty junky. I really needed to do the shock mounts though and figured I would give it a...

I'm probably wrong, but I thought I remember seeing that power and manual were the same arm up to a certain year. I think I was checking Mancini or something because I know I need to upgrade my idler when I put in my new K frame. You might check all the listings they have on their site and...

I don't know how bad the price difference might be between a kit and buying piecemeal, but the local Advance Auto in my neck of the woods carries Moog parts. I looked up to see what parts they had and think I could pretty much put together the bigger pieces of a front end (upper and lower ball...