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No worries, I know the feeling. I ended up fabbing up my own setup based on some other installs here. It's not as pretty, but probably more structurally sound than relying on the firewall alone for support. I welded a tab to the side of the main pedal support or something like that where the...

So the story is I did a 5.7 Hemi swap in my 67 Dart and originally used my 833. I cut around 5/8" off the tip to work with the Hemi as the crank on it wasn't drilled out to accept the full length of the input shaft and ran a register style bearing. I've since swapped to a 6 speed and am...

This was handy advice my dad and I figured out on our own when I've installed my trans a few times. The transmission jack is definitely helpful as in my case at least the back of the shifter pad runs into the back of the hump in the floor, so you have to pull the trans back a bit, then tilt...

May have to try it hot some day when I bring it home. Pretty sure the fluid was brand new and bought for the project. I may have had just a tad of previously opened new stuff in it at the beginning because I had it laying around, but pretty sure I blew most of that out on intial bleed. It did...

Mine seems to not like going into gear at a complete stop on my way home from work after I get off the highway sometimes. The first time it did this it was because the bolt holding the master to the pedal came loose as was allowing way too much play. I've since redone the spacer and bolt setup...

I copied 72BB's setup and have been pretty happy so far. I had to tweak the link length on the pedal to the master a few times to get a decent height and enough travel for my clutch to disengage. I think I may still need some heat wrap though, or another bleed. It's not really close to any...

For all T56 swap owners out there, how many of you have a true Viper trans in their car (not just a Viper spec trans)? What did you do about a connector for the speed sensor? I have a true Viper T56 (from a 2000 year car), and Dodge used a hall style 3 wire sensor for the VSS as opposed to the...

Some of the bore sizing is dependent on the slave cylinder choice as well. I'm running a 7/8" master to go with my T56 slave. You can tune the feel and travel using the bores or the pedal ratio. It becomes a pretty big game of variables, so typically the easiest thing to do is just fix a few...

I know there have been several setups shown and discussed on this forum before. You'd have to do a little digging to find them, but generally a search for "hydraulic clutch" would get you pretty close. I think someone did a push style setup with a Toyota slave if I recall in the past as it was...

I cheated and put in a 6 speed with an internal throwout, but the master cylinder side would be the same either way. Took my inspiration from another member's setup of a horizontally mounted slave right next to the brake master cylinder. So far it's been working out pretty well. My old...

Worst case you could make a bracket so that the linkage itself outside the trans hits the switch as mentioned. Wouldn't be the end of the world and probably not too much work, though annoying for sure. I fixed my problem by putting a whole new tranny in, but this time with 6 gears.

I had a similar problem with mine. There's a sort of cam shaped piece on the reverse lever internal to the trans that is what contacts the ball in the switch. On mine, if I kept pressure on the lever while in reverse it would just barely keep the lights on, but if you put it in reverse and...

I got one of the adapter ones like in your picture a few years back when I did the 5.7 swap in my car. As I recall I'm pretty sure I bought it online since the part stores around here aren't very good about finding parts with actual part numbers and no car to go with them. Might have gotten it...

You can see some of the sizes here http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BR23R. The O/D housing uses the 5.125 OD bearing retainer, but you have to be careful because they made it in two different bolt circles I believe. The smaller bolt circle is what you use on the older non...

It's only slightly more involved, but you can get different input bearing retainers that will fit to limit the need for adapters. I had a non O/D 4 speed in an O/D housing that used a factory input retainer. It's a fairly rare piece though and fetches a slight premium over the more plentiful...

The other thing to keep in mind is that ratio isn't necessarily the only thing to worry about. You can have a really nice ratio that's easier on your leg, but as the ratio changes the pedal travel does as well. Odds are the change will be less extreme, but since you're talking about travelling...

I can second that one to some degree. Was expecting the effort to lighten up a little from my junkyard mechanical linkage (done before I got the car), but it's still a pretty heavy pedal. May have more to do with the pressure plate at this point, though I didn't think it was supposed to be...

I'm curious on this as well, though I don't have a booster. Just put a T56 in my car and mounted the MC up high next to the brake MC. Flatened out the firewall and made a backing plate that mounts to the pedal box (thanks to 72BBSwinger for the design). Have some issues with my brake plumbing...

Funny this trans would finally release right after I finish my 6 speed swap. Always been a consideration of mine since I really wanted overdrive, but the price was a little high for me (or any other overdrive trans kit). Nice that it didn't require any cutting though, so even if it's in the...

I believe the three prong setup is a combination neutral safety/reverse lights switch used in automatics. The 2 prong swith on the 4 speed is for reverse lights only, the neutral safety (if equipped) would be found on the clutch pedal, not the transmission itself.

Another possible solution you could look at would be to modify the z bar lengths to get the extra movement. May be an easier mod for some than the pedal, but should give similar results. It's all just about the ratios. Pedal pivot to linkage ratio, z bar pedal side to clutch sidea ratio, and...

Yeah, I actually had a hell of a time trying to whittle the bronze one down without it cracking down the side. I was trying to replace a pretty thin wall as well, but it seems to have worked out so far. Having a lathe would have made it 100x easier though. Chucking stuff on a drill and hoping...

I had a similar issue on another car (94 Viper). The bushings were totally shot, but I didn't like the idea of plastic so I went out and bought a bronze flange bushing at the hardware store. Sanded it down until it fit and the pedal was much better and I hope the longevity is better as well...

I'm not sure I'd be too worried about any of the ratings that the different companies throw out. For what it's worth, the T56's out there in Vipers are only rated at 450-550 and I just watched a stock one dyno 978 ft/lbs through it and the guy has been driving it that way for a while. Probably...

Yeah, once you get to modifying things and pushing past what was originally intended a little extra safety never hurts. Just out of curiosity, was that Firebird stock or modified?

Just to play devil's advocate, I think the old tech flywheels and clutches might have been some of the issue as well. There are lots of new cars out there that make a ton of power with stock flywheel housings, though I'm guessing the stock housings nowadays might be a little stronger. A new...

Have you got any pictures of the pedal linkage to the master? Just curious where the AP kit put the pushrod on the clutch pedal.

I don't think the pedals are necessarily supposed to be the same height either. I thought I remember hearing somewhere that it was done that way on purpose so you could tell the difference between the brake and the clutch easier (I know, it sounds stilly, but with some people...). It may have...

You don't necessarily have to drain all the fluid to change it. I swapped mine out because the old one was leaking and I just backed the car into the driveway (slight incline down on the nose), then jacked the back end way up to try to get as much fluid forward as I could. Then I just made...

So total side note and you may have covered this somewhere else, but did you get your rear seats custom upholstered to match your front ones or are those stock style covers? My front buckets are from a Viper and have a black sort of base with grey pads and I've been thinking about doing a grey...