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This^^^ Or fix the 4777. There's really nothing to wear on it. So if its 'shot' in that its not running right but it used to, then its something simple; Dirt in passageway, leak from accelerator pump, umbrella tytpe check valve distorted from fuel component, etc. Take one apart and you'll...

As as Edelbrock caring, I found their customer service appreciative but impotent. That was in 2005. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/anybody-use-one-of-these-water-pumps.459828/post-1972923062

You disappointment is legit in my opinon. However the intake probably will work out. Chrysler was not consistant in placement of the intake or exhaust manifold bolt holes relative to the ports. So when changing intakes or installing headers it pays to to check the alignment and adjust if you...

The click is to turn the dome or courtesy lights on. Is turn all the way to brightest (if the light switch is pulled), and then the click is the dome light. Some thing is cross wired or back feeding. When one turn signal filament is out, the turning the signal on causes the others to stay on.

Because the new parts aren't as well made as the old ones. Because to save money they make one size to fit most and tell you its the right part. Good luck on finding a new headlight switch with a 15 amp circuit breaker like the originals. Do a search here for threads about turn signal...

@nodemon has the shop manual and the diagrams. Its a matter of helping him read it, and how to then use it. See june '68 here https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/index.htm or https://mymopar.com/chrysler-master-tech-service-library-browse-model-year/ A short is when the...

Pretty sure the primer under the soft yellow on my '67 was very similar to that green. Exception was the tan racing stripe which had a red oxide primer showing through. IIRC stripe was painted first. One day I'll look through the prints and see if any show this. We thought it was interesting...

Yea. They come in handy. edit and its classic!

The irony! Doing it to ourselves in this thread. @inertia You do what you have to to keep customers happy and yourself sane. OK. Here's what I see. These are gauges, and therefore need to be read both dynamically and in context. JYH's example *looks at gauge one tick mark on the red* That is...

LOL. There's a current thread resurection where I got blasted for "not explaining the physics" even though I had already done so in that very thread. People like that must beleive that the helpful ones here are insane and have nothing better to do than repeat ourselves in fruitless...

and that's the begining of the VIN. Full VIN is on the door frame. Only other items it will have coded are engine, year, and plant. The plate you are looking at is generally called the Data plate.

I think for '67 basically make a notebook of what you can pickup from people who have been nice enough to share knowledge.

Look at the Dealer Data Book and the Salesman Pocket Guide for what came with the'67 Formula S package https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/library-2.shtml

1967 parts book shows no difference in MC based on whether the drums are 9" or 10" 2808 599 for all drum systems A, B and C body ' 1969 the same 1970 shows a new part number but no differnce with respect to drum brake diameter.

Good question. I wouldn't spend money for the disk set up master cylinder when all it should be is a common drum master cylinder. See the pdf here Replacing Master Cylinder No reason to have to guess whether the salesman or some stranger on the internet has a leg to stand on or is making it up...

Rochester Brake and Clutch is another possibility. Rochester NY. Everything from tractors to road race applications. I've used Porterfield on both pads and shoes but not sure they have much choice in street applications besides their own RS4. it's pretty good IMO. Some people might not be...

Depends what blade is on the car. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/who-knows-wipers-and-refills-especially-originals.339171/

Shop manual's are a good place to look. '73 Dodge Body manual

Better would be to connect the sending unit wire to one side of a resistor. Ground the othe side of the resistor. 10 to 75 ohms will work. around 23 ohms should get the gage to indicate half full. Its better to use a resistor because direct grounding can quickly burn out the gage.

Its been a while since I looked. If not listed under mopar, look under Mustang. Same piston. Also some Corvettes. Quick look at some old links not finding them seperate but they may still be out there as this company is offering them installed. http://calipersonline.com/compact1965-72.aspx...

If the bores aren't mesed up get the stainless steel pistons

This is the better way to approach it for sure. At least for us mortals. One step fancier, but not exotic (ie. 5 gas analyzer combined with a load dyno) is datalogging MAP and acceleration. Every decrease in vacuum with more throttle should result in more power. I've posted a couple of...

You are confusing reference pressures. 14.7 psi is the approximate Absolute Pressure of the atmosphere at sea level. 16 psi pressure on the cap is the pressure difference between the inside and outside of the cap.

Thanks. You just told me enough for me to know that he doesn't have a clue. Chasing WBO2 numbers is pointless unless they've been related to something useful, and AFR numbers even more so.

That's as good as you get. from that it's likely a Carter M6902 which also advertized a 120 gph free flow. http://www.heritech.org/cuda/fueldelv.html#Pump%20Fit%20Issues I don't know if Ryan Brown is testing pumps anymore. I would have sent him more at the time but only had the three to test.

Another clue supporting what a couple people mentioned above. Whether using a Chrysler's vented cap or the other guys always pressurized, once the coolant is in the overflow or recovery tank, it should be at atmospheric pressure. In other words, the overflow tank should be vented to atmosphere...

Those are definately some rare cars on FABO, or even not just FABO. I'd say also very rare, at least on FABO are RHD export cars, Australian Valiants, the Mexican and South African models, and the one Brazilian model I recall being posted. Some of the Canadian versions seem pretty rare too.

Think I'll do the same. I had to watch the intro to understand why they called it a 'saloon racer'. Nice fantasy. So if it floats someone's boat, cool.

The challenge here is A. we can't see what you have. B. there is little on FABO or Moparts about correct wipers and refills. It certainly seems odd considering there are lots of threads about details that most people don't see such as assembly line crayon markings, the right shade of engine...

Are they pushbutton?