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You already had much skills and experience building. I just had some insight with the fuel and timing. Lots of guys here who could help with getting it fired up with a new carb and distributor. Tuning will come later. @dads71 Check the Shop Manual for which way the clutch should face when...

There are others here who have a lot more experience than me. I have an area or two of knowledge and a bunch of learning the hard way. H'm. OK. If the carb hasn't been taken out of the box, then this will be a bit different story. How about the distributor and ECU? Did they come with...

Further comments in getting ready to tune and drive. Proform "Mopar authorized" Ignition kit. Not much info posted about the internals of these. So my advice is this. If its running OK, then the first opportunity measure the timing versus rpm from idle on up through 2000 rpm. Then if your...

There also should be no play in the clutch unit. Don't know how I forgot about that since I've been bit for ignoring that one. ---------------- Getting ready for driving and tuning, lets look at the dyno sheet. To me this looks like a pull for break in and check for problems. A tuning effort...

If its not leaking and there is resistance when when you turn the portion that holds the fan while holding the attaching flange. Some clutches had a thermal control on the front - that one probably does not. best part is that it will fit and be spaced properly without spending a bunch of time...

The car has two power sources; battery and alternator. Each has a wire that connects to the main circuits at a welded splice. The splice is hidden in the harness but its important to understanding the system. Power is fed to the splice and then to one of three main cicuits. 1. Fuses that are...

New cars are wired differently than old cars and trucks. The wiring diagram in the Plymouth or Dodge Chassis Service Manual is pretty complete and accurate - although some years better than others. www.mymopar.com has a digitial copies for '66 which you can download. Yes a single circuit can...

yes ! Michel, It will be worth the effort to identify the model year, whether it was a US, Canadian, or Export build, and then figure out changes made after production. A '66 has different wire connections, different automatic transmission linkage, and a Canadian build had different electric...

I'd replace the parts that ned to be, and run the rest until they are shot. Some new replacement parts these days are junk, the rest are a matter of luck. So points, condensor, ball joints, tie rod ends, wouldn't toss unless they fail or are out of spec. Heck even water pumps I've bought have...

A couple of resources with harder to find factory info are the Master Tech Conference Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics and at The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Library Page (1965 - 1969) are many TSBs plus sales lit. Between the two answers a lot of questions...

Welcome. Looks neatly done. 76 cars have some things unique to them. I don't recall any that would be noticible from the drivers point of view.

I'd say aftermarket A/C. with a little digging, you can find out more. For the one in my '67 I found some period advertising. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/original-aftermarket-a-c-frigette-strato-v.439185/ For the actual model year, see where the VIN plate is located. Then...

That is one of the corrections which effects routing but not the function. The instrument lamp feed goes from the headlight switch to 2 amp fuse, then to the steering column connector, and only then to the welded splice. Look at the link below for my mark up. So go to the steering connector...

Both colors are used to denote hot wires. Not sure what diagrams you are looking. The factory diagram identifies all of the circuits, colors, and wire gage. The '67 diagrams are not quite as good as 68 but still pretty good. For '67 the Barracuda diagrams are in the '67 Service supplement...

Keep it simple. Work with the factory stuff especially when the numbers are gibberish. Get a Factory Service Manual. It covers a lot of rebuilding. Some years are free downloads at mymopar.com IIRC there is a 65 or 66 there. Print copy is nice too - keep an eye out for them. A compression...

We're not seeing the ammeter in those photos. The ammeter is further over toward the passenger side. Red wire connects to the battery. Black wire to the main splice and the alternator. (photo from this ad [SOLD] - 1964 Barracuda Valiant Gauge Cluster Ignition with key) If you didn't see the...

I personally like the simplicity of staying with the grounded field regulator. Its a simpler system and I feel its easier to troubleshoot. If you ever need a replacement you can just look up the regulator for a '64. Finally if you can't find a grounded field alternator, its relatively easy to...

Looks like a lot of heat around the output terminal and the heat sink for the positive rectifier is out of place, but no heat damage there. That's a rebuilt isolated field alternator. Your car started life with a grounded field alternator. The photo in post shows a voltage regulator for a...

What @toolmanmike wrote is right on the money. You can thow darts and hope its just the ammeter, although many times an ammeter problem is not the ammeter at all. The question is what wiring fried and why. Although you may know this, many people don't. The ammeter shows current flow in and...

Yes, better to be careful. Supplying 12 to 14 volts could overheat the resistance wire in gage. Just added another tip my post. Measure resistance of the gage first. Earlier gages were 20 Ohms, '76 might be 13 ohms.

1976 has some unique wiring, but as far as I know the fuel gauge is the same as previous years. There's a couple of ways to test the gage alone. I think the most complete test is to connect the gage to a 10 to 74 ohm resistor or variable resistor and supply it with power from the instrument...

It wouldnt hurt to check. That exhaust manifold looks like 273 to me. A resto buyer will want it to be 273 and a hot rodder or flipper might want the 340 if its in good shape.

^^^That's how I see it too. A buyer who plans to hot rod it or race it could will likely value these things differently than a buyer who wants a driver or one who wants to restore it. Cleaned up shows someone cares and maybe more important, removes question marks. Questions such as condition...

Depends somewhat on your goals. If you just need to move it, then go for the Craigslist. If you want to try to get its most value, then clean it as best possible, get air in the tires, and list at a higher price and be patient. But if doing that, then definately give it a good look over for...

It sounds like fun but there's nothing I see there that even gives a hint to the parameters of the game. Need to know things like what tires are allowed, can body panels be modified and so forth. Also need to know the game itself. For example Goodguys are very low speed, short tight courses...

Moi? Would be best to know more about the event before I start blabbering about anything. There's always rules that define the game.

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