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There's no recess on the aluminum casting. Only difference I'm aware of in castings is the slant six abody cars got a bushing instead of a bearing. The bolts you show look familiar. I think they may be the same as came on my '67 Barracuda. I wouldn't worry about it too much. Once torqued...

Here's ordering code for '68 https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/dealerships/_1968-DealershipsOrderingInfo.shtml?load_img=24 Dealer book info https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/dealerships/DealershipDataBook/1968/68_Dart0026.jpg

Year ? You can look up many of the option codes https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/library.shtml 20:1 manual was Direct Connection only part (aka P-part)

Both @autoxcuda and @Oldmanmopar have noted the threads and length change in '73. along with that the factory bushings. Here's some photos the latter has posted. "The 73 and up strut rods have a shorter flange to flange length and require a thicker two piece strut rod bushing with a sleeve ...

The adjustable rods addressed the incorrect aftermarket bushings and the issues related to LCA fore-aft movement on ply and nylon LCA bushings. What happend was this: the fat rear bushing pushed the LCA back. Maybe the rubber bushings could tolerate this, but with poly the whole LCA moved back...

I'd remove that traction bar. Strongly consider a pair of new shock plates. It's hard to tell from the photo if that's a home made thing or just a repair. Check the driveshaft angles and install pinion angle shims as needed. IIRC need 2.5" wide shims. How much more than that you need to do...

Chrysler leafs have a shorter front segment. That's what makes them different. Clamp the front to make it even more like an arm, and/or add a half leaf. Yes a slapper bar with a bumper can be used. @CPDave used them on the Zebra Dart for several years. But around 2010 switched to Afco leaf...

It's the shackle angle that can bind. Usually happens when rear is raised.

It sounds like the car is is either riding on the bump stops or has bad shocks. Bad as in failed or too much high frequency damping. The rst is what folks have posted. Front sway bar for reduced roll and up the t-bars. This assumes the rear springs aren't busted or shackles at some weird...

Leaf Springs - at least some. No? edit. For restoration and original info, I find Moparts still has the most posters. Here's some with pictures showing cosmoline https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2006298/2.html...

Exactly. This is the one problem. When they do wear they are a one year only part. I went through about 3 in the many years I autocrossed (with sticky tires) using the '67 K-frame in my '67. I know people who autocross with the earlier cars too, and plenty of people rallied those early cars...

Jack one wheel off the ground. Grab it at the 12 and 6 position. If there is play, observe the hub and you'll see if its the wheel bearings. Then go to the 9 and 3 o'clock position. Turn the wheel and see what in the steering linkage moves together and where something is loose. Its a...

You can poo poo sporty driving all you want, but that's always been my preference. Whether other owners want that or a more cushy feel is up to them. The OP asked so we've told him. You said you didn't understand why people wanted some steering response, I tried to explain it. I've met...

The importance of steering have some 'feel' is twofold. It allows a more consistantly precise input while providing feedback of the tire response. Tire response on dry pavement is primarily slip angle (which is not slip but the tire contact patch vs. the wheel angle) and that's a pretty subtle...

Sounds like you may not have got a full alignment. Open your shop manual, or a '73 downloaded from Mymopar. The alignment procedure is very clear and must be followed. 1. Ride Height - as defined by Chrysler 2. Camber 3. Caster 4. Toe Recheck the camber after adjusting the caster. If the...

If they don't slip into the hexes, then sand the coating down. Just the coating. Don't force them into the hex, or they are a bitvch to get out.

Feeling like a marshmallow can have as much or more to do with the shocks than the springs. The SS springs - and the raised raised rear can make the back end feel stiff and jumpy. The combination of softer front and SS springs when done right can provide excellent weight transfer to the rear...

The question is whether they need it. My guess is yes, but that would be because of loss of rate (overloaded and cycling). Factory springs (except SS) are designed to be flat when loaded. So with full tank and and say 100 pounds of tools or luggage in the trunk, flat would be correct. When...

Understeering is always safer. Almost ways better to stiffen the front first and/or more. When the tail starts slapping, there's generally no saving it - except sometimes in an autocross or track if there is enough room. All it takes is a little less tractions and a little dynamic weight shift...

I see the confusion. On the machine its 0.6 and 4.1 That's different. The right has room for adjustment and the left seems way off. First thing I would check is the ride hieghts. Caster will go more positive the lower the ride hieght. Also unless the machine is set up to show camber in...

The problem is the caster is maxed out at positive 6 and 4.1* Adjust them to 3* on both sides and there will be plenty of room to adjust the camber to be a little negative.

Exactly.

There's the problem. Set the caster at 3 on both sides. Then turn both cams the same amount in to get a little negative camber. Finally fix the toe so they are both in evenly when the steering wheel is straight. If you still have high crowned roads, then you can go with the FSM to see how the...

its been a while since I've looked one of these as I've mostly been doing my own old school. Correct me as needed. I think we may be looking at the following: Your saying the top is Caster 2.8 2.9 The next line combines to -3.5*, so is that toe .6 and 4.1* ? Then we see 9.9 and 18.2* The...

It looks that way but photos can be decieving, and more so also when the arms are in full droop. Might think that this photo is showing a negative caster situation but its not. Seems pretty difficulty to accidently swap the UCAs - I can't imagine the aftermarket ones are that different...

Since you claim to know what I like, let me illustrate some of what I like for my driving. So let me be clear., I did not make my suggestion based on what I wanted. I made my suggestion based on what the OP has, what his stated need was, and the basic purpose of shocks. The basic purpose...

Its not that the shock is stiffer or softer. And yes maybe our crap roads make your crap roads look smooth as a sheet of ice. I'll tell another little story. Two of us (from FABO) drove out to visit another member a couple hours west of here. It was a nice Sunday drive. When the other...

I'm not Dano, but I wrecked a car in part because I installed helper springs. What I learned the hard way was that stiffening the rear, when there is no additional weight back there, is a setup for the rear to fishtail back and forth at the worst possible time. In my case it was an off-ramp to...

Not recommending either in particular. Just all my experiences with the shocks from the two big names has been that they work fine. Likewise my experience with the KYBs is exactly what I wrote above - high frequency damping is way off. High frequency is the response to small changes in...

Well sell the Konis to someone who will get them rebuilt. Take the money and put it aside in case you decide a set of monroe or gabriels will let someone ride with you and not spill their coffee.