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As good of a guess as any. Great lock. A locksmith should be able to recore it for you.

Nice work and great to see the kid involved. I have two aluminum aftermarket water pumps and at least one factory cast iron pump for a jeep 360. Similar if not exactly the same. There's a reason I bought both pumps with clearly different castings. There's also a reason I've kept an original...

See the where the arrow is pointing on the 256 shoe; on the 288 frame it becomes a flat tab. Slides better against the backing plate. Its in the what's new for '68 MTSC https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/242/Page13.htm https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/

Note the shoes in the last photo are slightly different to accomodate the new hardware. (331) The '68 shoe frames are pretty rare. Most end up with '67 (non-tabbed) or Ford versions unless you save the old and get 'em relined. Not a big deal but a nice little detail. Usually the shoe frame...

Sometimes the self adjusters were removed for heavy duty use. Carefully note the direction of the adjuster. Direction for tightening reverses starting with 1969 model year. I see tabbed shoes. That is correct for 1968 for builds starting March 1. These are new replacement 288 shoes for rear...

Now that you mention it... Probably should look at the date markings in the plastic lenses. I actually prefer the 68 Camaro look.

You are aware that a member here made a layered PDF of the factory drawings? I posted a couple corrections or clarifications but his colored and layered drawing is about as good as gets for '67. The assembly drawings are of some help too depending what your doing and how deep yoiur interest.

yes you are correct about the red https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/dealerships/1968PlymouthDealershipDataBook-01.shtml But this is a '67 Barracuda not a '68. At some point it got '68 rear trim on what appears to be a '68 rear deck lid. The tail lights appear to be correct.

Here's a couple examples using initial timing and advance from service manuals. Here's a '69 with CAP/CAS with the gray dots representing measurements on an engine. With the timing of TDC set at 700 rpm, the rest of the timing is in spec. With 7*TDC at 1000 rpm everything is the same as as...

The charcoal can may need some vacuum for purging. Main concern functionally will be the fuel tank vents where ? The carb in the photo has a bowl vent inside the air cleaner, so it will work fine. The charcoal can connection to the carb bowl is typically only for controlling bowl vapor when...

Just skimming through. It sure looks like an EGR valve on the intake. Off the top of my head EGR should be closed off when the engine is cold, at idle hot and cold, as well as at wide open throttle. Typcially they use a ported vac source and some sort of thermal switch usually in a coolant...

Open the lid. IIRC there was a change in the lid springs and '68 has the slider between them

And if it only leaks when the pump is running, the fault is in the connections or lines.

On the other hand, if the only way to solve the leak is to drop the tank, then going stock may be the way to go. Because: 1. Factory or factory copies fit and function without a lot of custom work. Steel or stainless hard line is better than long hoses. - Aftermarket copies are not always as...

Looks like it might be square sided. It might be a fuel cell, and it might have an in-tank pump. Assuming the leak is in the lines, you could keep that. Run a short flexible line to a copy hardline, then to a regulator, then filter and to carb. If you must use hose for distance, then something...

Yes. The gas tank straps do not come through into the trunk. Only the shock mounts, which are higher up.

That was fine to begin with, but now the goal is to figuer out what needs fixing. Changing a line or a fitting is different situation than changing a tank. it also means to find the leak, the pump will have to be powered up.

Yes but it may also have a mechanical pump on the engine. People run both. Its not common, but its done. There will either be a pump,or a block off plate visible or the right side of the engine. Behind the water pump and in front of the #2 exhaust. edit: It's kindof under the alternator but...

What I'm saying is if it only leaks when the pump is run, then the tank itself is not leaking.

I didn't want to suggest that but I did want suggest that. Heck there could be a mechanical pump on it already. Or - you tell me - could the cam have be missing the eccentric? Is that common when the plan is run an electric pump?

Fuel Pressure regulator attached to floor of trunk

So it only leaks when the pump is running? As far as seeing better, that's where a couple of 2 x 10s under the rear wheels can be helpful without resorting to a lift or jack stands. Another route is a mirror so your not right underneath the leak!

Nearly, On a factory or copy of a factory tank. The wire is to the sender. The rubber hose is very short. The steel clip is harder to see in the photo. Hold on. This is a '67 car^ so that is why you don't see the straps holding the tank up. Also why there is no provision for vapor capture...

Is there also a mechanical pump on the engine? If so, thats a quick route to simplifying the setup and ditching the extra hose. Also could explain the fuel gage issues . The factory pickup completes the circuit using a clip from the sender to the fuel hard line. Autometer might be the same.

That I don't know. Most 4 barrels are progressive anyway. In other words, the secondaries only begin to move after the primary throttles are partially open. Then they catch up, or partially catch up. Some designs never get the secondaries to full 90 degree (on purpose). My point was that...

Well. I think you'll do better on the sale if you get it running better. Not that I think most of the market value is in the mechanicals, but it helps. Rotate the electric choke so its further open when cold. Choke is the last thing to adjust on the carb. Get the throttle cable and...

Its a good demonstration of how little throttle opening is needed for basic everyday driving.

Corrected based on latest info. Sadly I agree. Some guys luck out and find a good mechanic, but this isn't happening, and probably won't. Truth is, its usually more than just luck. This isn't difficult stuff, but you have to be willing to do it. It also means investing in some tools - the...

It looks like your PDF is from the standard instrument panel diagram while I was looking at the Rallye instrument diagram. Need both to compare with what you find on the car.

Warning buzzer harness. Relay Buzzer not needed for everything else to work.