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Interesting that Dutra did that. Maybe on the weekend if I'm not too busy I'll look for my newer copy of pipemax. 'Newer' but not even close to the latest. I've never run a model for a six on it - not even sure if the older version will do it. I'm pretty sure Meaux's new version do. Have...

You're trying to maintain a wide power band, and good from down low, right? So the big thing will be velocity out of the exhaust ports. The least cheats and the smoothest bends. When the tubes start to joint, try not to go bigger than needed...

Conventional Wisdom? Is that like asking Joe down the street and Bob at the bar? Lets think about this. There are a number of reasons the other guys already laid out for having individual idle mixture valves (aka screws). At least for me, the technical rationale outweighs the popular thoughts...

You should be able to see the timing mark advance with rpm. With a dialback light or timing tape you can measure timing beyond the marks on the engine. 7* at 750 rpm falls within spec for the original distributor if its initial was set at 5*, 550 rpm. (All I did to create this graph was to...

Aw geez. I don't have a Canadian book. They did a lot of stuff different in the 60s. Prob not the timing. lets assume its a typical 170 auto. If the distributor still has a tag, the number will match the distributor number in the book.

Was it a stick or auto? and was it from California?

Do it slow with minimal pump shot. If it happens at all going slow, then its something more basic. Idle circuits, fuel level, or maybe not fuel related. If it happens when driving real slow, not accelerating, then its definately not the pump shot.

Notice even in '66 the CAP engines idle 100 to 150 rpm higher than the standard equipment. HC and smog reduction methods required less initial advance (sometimes retarded) to put more heat into the cylinder walls, and the loss in power was made up for with high initial rpm. The retarded initial...

I basically agree RRR. But on a very very gentle acceleration the pump shouldn't do much and the problem should be noticibly less. I'd be curious how it acted in neutral. I think what I'd do is check the spark plugs and in the cap (because they alsways have potential to reveal a good clue)...

According to the FSM its right in between your two experiments. 5* BTDC at 550 for a 49 state car. (If its a CAP car and has the original distributor, then it should be set retarded because advance is fast and long.)

OK. I think I follow you. I'll explain why I asked and maybe you've already got this but if not then we've put it to rest. Making it richer the idle and vacuum fall off more slowly than when turning it leaner. Turning it in (leaner) the drop from right on the money to dying is pretty quick. So...

Seems a litle high relative to factory. Lemme look in the FSM. Don't think that alone should be a cause though. And forgive me if this sounds too basic,; Was the timing and idle set with the vacuum advance disconnected? That's a good clue its not the accel pump but the something more basic...

Two turns going out or in?

Piggyback at the ballast resistor on the ignition run side. (Dark Blue J2 wire) That's power for ECU and connects to the top position of the ECU connector. Then a ring terminal is needed on the wire from the ECU connector that will connect the coil negative to ground when the ECU is...

Welcome to the world of hard lessons. I would do whatever is neccessory to avoid adding an electric fan. If that means not using that A/C package, so be it. The A/C electric draw alone is enough to deal with properly. Adding an ECU is pretty easy, although the better option IMO is to use...

at what rpm? is it already advancing? without the tach it becomes a wild good chase. with a '67 225 distributor advance begins as low as 650 rpm Was this done on the fast idle step or the slow? is the choke on? is the fuel level correct? is the pump shot working? These are all things I would...

I'd start with that as a possibility. Which carb? Wait, you suspect the transmission was causing this same problem? I don't think any of us would have guessed that from you first post. It sounds like the engine lacks power at idle and off idle. My suggestion would have been to start with...

Yep. It's in the back of the electrical section under ignition of the Factory Service Manual.* For the rpm the timing should be set at, go the fuel section. Of course if you've changed the distributor, the factory setting for that year, etc, may not be exactly right, but should be a good...

Timing is advanced only to get maximum pressure when the maximum leverage is on the crank. More timing is not always good. Its simply neccessary because fuel takes time to burn. A faster burning combustion doesn't need to be ignited as early as a slow burning mix. Timing is increased with rpm...

Timing at full load (such as wide open throttle 3 or 4th gear on a high compression, cammed engine does relate to octane. People will call the situation octane limited. In other words the combination could take advantage of a higher octane fuel if it was available. But if its not available...

and plugged! Golf tees are the best.

Thanks Bugman. Be nice to see the rest of TSB 25-05-76 Looks like may have been a mid year change back to ported with substantially increased initial timing. Need to see the rest of the details to know for sure.

In the Master tech series, it shows a solenoid on some carbs starting in '75 designed to work with a speed sensor to protect to the cats. These additional systems aren't that hard to understand but if not aware of them can really cloud the picture.

I'm not that familiar with the slant six carbs and their replacements. However, since this happened after changing the carb I would suspect the carb or the changes (vac hose rerouting or similar) that occured with the change. Before going back to the previous carb, see if the reason for high...

1976 will have to be purchased. '75 to '76 have a number of changes IMO it would be well worth the purchase. Dying going from N or P into gear could be the idle tuning as several have mentioned. The engine systems (carburation, ignition, emissions sub-systems, exhaust) for '76 were set up for...

He's suggesting using the water pump as a template to center the hole. The actual drilling of the bolt must under size. I've drilled out bolts several times. The bit has to be smaller than the threads and then some. Using a bit made for hard steel helps, and the left hand thread bits are...

In the same vein could put a dial indicator on the lifter and measure cam lift off the base circle. That will provide a decent idea of the cam even without checking timing at .05 and which wouldn't be that much harder but is more work to set up tape or a degree wheel.

From Chrysler The Master Technicians Conference has a lot of good info like this. https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/ or if you prefer pdf format go to www.mymopar.com

Lets start with this. The inability to hold pressure anywhere in the system will allow the temperature to rise once vapor begins to form in the system. See if you can get your hands on a tester. They usually have adapters to check caps as well as the system. Looks like this Side note: A...

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