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Much like people.

New ones are cheap and cleaner on the inside.

Random thoughts. The IVR in the gas gauge may be behaving inconsistently. Have you confirmed that the gauge cluster is grounded to the body? You may have two problems, fuel sending unit (chinesium) and temp sender ( taped threads?) I tend to think that your new fuel sender is bad because you can...

Right rear intake bolt to firewall hole just for the ground wire, just to the left of heater motor bolts.

Numbers are on the top, near the outlet terminal.

There is no power to the horn. Contact at the steering wheel is a ground only.

I'm assuming that your '55 didn't come with the optional T/S. There is an aftermarket ad-on switch and wiring (vintage stuff) that might make your job easier.

Brake light wiring must go through the T/S switch as the brake light circuit is cancelled in a left/right turn.

Headlights run through the dimmer switch, not any running lights.

There a lot of incompetent mechanics out there. Voltage readings can be deceptive. Charging system may be working ( 14.2v running), but I still question the condition of the battery to hold a charge. You must do a load test! If needed. take out your battery and take it to a qualified mechanic...

#1- check the condition of the battery with a load tester. If the battery is good, then #2- check the charging system. If it's working, then #3- really set the timing with a timing light, no guessing. Tell us what you find.

I agree with all of the above. I have seen Mopar and aftermarket adjustable. These are only adjustable enough to bring charging within normal range.

If I were to clean a spark plug, it be only with an abrasive cleaner like gdrill.

On the top of the ashtray housing is a square hole. Into it go the two "feet" of the bulb holder. This is the ground. The orange wire plugs into the main harness nearby. All orange wires are dash lights.

Looks like a ashtray light.

There are so many bolts holding the dash to the body, it would almost impossible for it to be poorly grounded.

More likely poor contacts in the solenoid.

Tach runs off it's own fuse. Only cars with AC or tach had a full fuse block. Most cars had one fuse missing.

Check radiator support grounds.

I would consider removing the cluster so I could inspect and test it on the bench.

When you install the correct switch, check continuity through the switch when in reverse. If you have juice then the problem is between there and the bulb.

If gauge cluster is incorrectly installed it will not ground.

Bulbs are 1034A front and 1034 rear, but you can use 1157. Canceling pin should be at the 9:00 position. Are both park lights grounded on the radiator support?

Bad bulbs? Bad ground?

Corrosion and rust on connectors are of concern. I chose to remove terminals from they're plastic holders and bead blast them clean and coat with dielectric grease. I also disassembled all switches and cleaned their contacts.

The gauge itself.

Often accessories or optional equipment have their own separate schematic. Check other pages in your FSM.

It is nice to finish off with shrink tubing.

A side marker light cannot work as a headlight/turn signal light. You are correct as to the ground, but the bulb is only single filament. If you want lights all the time the engine is running, change the power source to the switch, maybe from the coil?

I have seen bulb "covers" in various colors.