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Those three numbers are found on your broadcast sheet and aid the line person to select the proper one for your car. Variations include A and B bodies, standard or Hemi. My numbers were yellow and had to make my own stamp.

You should replace the bushing also.

For what it's worth- when I bought the cuda new in '68 I thought the shifting was poor so I swapped out the 90w for Mopar's fish oil (still have some). Huge improvement! Today I use Redline with good results. You should read some of Redline's comments about some oils effect on syncros.

So, you understand the "neutral" position in your manual? And after that the two rods are 1/2" too short? Have you compared the length of your rods with the length of stock replacement rods?

Yes, find neutral first.

Some bel housings are dual pattern as 3 and 4sp are different. See what you have. Also the throwout bearing collars may be different sizes, check your bel housing.

Swing pedals?

Am I seeing a ball & trunion drive shaft?

A leaking rear seal is usually one of three possibilities. The seal itself, worn tail shaft busing or a leaking yoke end cap.

I would only use oils made for stick shift trans. Oils have changed a lot in the last few years. The improper oils may actually attack the brass synchro's and degrade them.

Front bearing.

Look up under the dash at the over center spring. On the light duty spring, you will easily see the full spring out in open hooked on each end. On the HD spring, the spring is "incased", is partially hidden from view by a large outer support bracket. What you don't see is that the HD pedals...

Did you remove the over-center spring?

If I understand your question correctly, the pedals and their linkages will be similar, 3 or 4sp. Shift linkage is very different. New metal "humps" are available.

Yes, seal it! There will also be engine heat coming in. Even a sealed rubber flap will work. Spend a little time now and you won't regret it.

I have driven all gear ratio's. Which do you prefer for our car, gas mileage, low RPM freeway cruising- then select the 2.76. If you favor drag racing or stop light o stop light performance, choose 3.90 or better. If you're somewhere in between, then 3.55 or better with 15" tires.

The factory pivot ball, frame side should look more like this. The picture is belhousing side- your side should have a similar ball and stem, no bracket, but have male threads and nut to bolt to inner fender.

That is the wrong pivot ball on the fender side.

This is how they are made, factory. Be sure to have the correct clip and washer behind it.

I would reserve judgement on the syncro's until I saw the inside friction area.

Check for wear on the shifting forks. If they need replacing, the steel ones are better.

Later model trans has "interlock" levers in the side cover. Try removing the side cover first to inspect these levers.

Sounds to me like a "rolling rattling" noise, rather consistent. I am more inclined to think it is tranny. Your TOB should be fully released and not spinning.

I don't recommend the factory 90w. Shifting is much better with those other 100 oils.

There are "tricks" beyond Jamie's book that a professional would know if you can find one.

Earlier side cover with detents is better. I don't recommend using that type of cover.

Get it up on the hoist while someone works the clutch to locate.

Sorry, '68 Dart. Will use Gerst suspension.

Who makes an adapter for sbm? Do I understand correctly that the tunnel needs to be enlarged for the 5 and 6 speeds? Thanks.

4-sp consols are different as are the top plates. You also need the 4-sp floor hump. Check your crank.