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You probably already know your 75 model has a white fuse box with about twice as many fuses as the earlier black 5 circuit fuse box shown above. If this is a gauge pod that mounts under the dash, like under the radio maybe, All the power you need is right there at the radio and already fused...

Yep, all those other lamps in the instrument panel get their power from other circuits. Illumination gets shifter indicator, radio, maybe a ashtray lamp, all on an orange wire. Some instrument panels have 2 connectors with this orange wire in both. Thus gauge lighting on one side but not the...

To do that my wife would need to snap the pic with her cell phone then email it to my laptop. It's pretty much just a hole punch like tool made of very hard tool steel. I would use vise and hammer to bend factories 4 corners inward back close to where they once were then use the tool to spread...

My brother (actually an electrical engineer in training) says the weaker nut is the mechanical engineer's manner of suggesting/showing a weak foundation, being the way such a large stud is attached. The studs might have been much smaller diameter or even a totally different manner of attachment...

@S'cuder You can use a 10-32 die with a drop of lube to clean those rusty contact studs. It's a tedious chore since a handle wont go there. Fingers only. My 10-32 die from Harbor Freight just barely fits between the studs. The factories stamped tin nuts contact only 1 thread of the stud. Since...

I'm quite pleased to see "heatsink", "finned heatsink", and mention of compound noted on your drawing. Sure some portion of the heat would wick out into the mounting tang of the unit but we must understand that the heat is generated inside the chip. Thus the heat is concentrated in the part of...

Yeah a crowd of owners/ DIY type do use steering column mounting for a ground point. I had done the same in the beginning. Later it occurred to me that if at some point in the future I might need to partially pull the inst' panel for light bulb R&R or any other simple service I would need to...

The downside... no matter how many places you ground the solid state regulator to the cast metal inst' housing, nothing is chassis grounded until that housing is chassis grounded. You'll need to add a ground jumper to batt' negative before attempting any bench testing. Reason being, If this type...

I truly do want to respond with some level of help but sadly, there is another issue. I have several other posts on this forum concerning a blue box that shows [WAIT]. I must mouse to and click the feckin' thing before I can continue. I've done that at least 12 times just to complete what you...

Late to the party. I'll point out that only 1 of two illumination circuits is identified. The smaller board also has the orange wire feeding 2 of the 4 bulbs. I do have an aftermarket stereo head unit in my rally panel along with it tiny LEDS. My instrument panel retains the incandescent bulbs...

Current will flow both directions through the resistor so finding power on both all the way back to the switch is normal. You have a voltage drop somewhere. Check what is coming in and what is going through and out at the switch.

In reference to the early round back alternators, the simplest way to tell exactly what your remanufactured alternator actually is made of is throw the stater on a scale. It's weight would be different. Once upon a time there was a shop called Mr. Alternator in G'ville SC that would rebuild...

The wild needle swings are a symptom of failing mechanical limiter but I can't say I've seen similar from a solid-state regulator. The little 7405 chip for example will output 5.2 to 5.4 volts with input anywhere between 9 and 35 volts. The output will climb as they overheat though. The...

You can simply solder wire onto the circuit boards copper traces but be forewarned, if the wire gets pulled in the future the copper trace will peel up/off very easily. Good luck with it.

If you look closely at the female terminals at harness connectors to the inst' panel, you'll notice those are oval shaped while the male pins on circuit boards are round. Each male post bares small lines where very little contact/connection was achieved. Without changing those connections...

As stated above, the brake lamps and hazard flashers, headlights, horn, etc,,, are all hot at all times. The ignition switch has nothing to do with those circuits. The ignition switch does power a portion of the fuse box which includes those accessories such as wipers, turn signals, radio, etc...

Its sort of typical for the novice to assume a black wire casing means ground wire. No so. Black is on the ground side of the circuit but where the current actually reaches chassis ground is on other side of whatever the black wire is feeding. Consider the amp gauge. One red wire is initial...

They never actually had to put any type of connector at the fusible link. A ex Chrysler master tech I worked with at a local Ford dealership called it a service disconnect. Separate that and service anything inside the cabin and majority of what is in the engine bay without ever touching a...

The OEM female terminals in the inst' panel connectors were not round but oval shaped. A close look at the round pins reveals only 2 thin lines where female contacted male. Better plan is soldering wire copper pads where the male pins are removed and use modern connectors slightly farther away...

Household twist on wire nuts need to go A.S.A.P. They are acceptable in a home where there is little to no vibration. In a vehicle they will turn off the twisted wire and roll around in the floor. Even the scotch lock connectors would be better.

Just days ago, my junior opened a new package of the red and black painted replacement post terminals. Only parts/areas not painted was hardware and cross strap. One would think the hash marked cavity where wire lays would have been left bare. I never cared for those chunks of lead anyway...

Sounds like poor connections at battery terminals to me also.

The Sunpro CP8215 volts gauge is still available at Amazon... The installation varies from one panel to another. It's not exactly easy in any. I've put several in the a-body rally panel, reusing OEM screen and needle but most owners don't bother with the needle swap. The Sunpro is a bit...

If you have a crock pot or other with a vented glass lid, it has a silicone grommet in the vent hole. That is what aftermarket isolating grommets are shaped like. Imagine a donut with a groove in it outside? Thats best can describe.

There is sheet like piece of rubber isolator between this instrument and the housing also but none of this would prevent an audible clicking. It only prevents a low humming coming from a machine-like instrument and resonating through the dash. If anyone needs to replace the 2 round isolators...

OK, the most important part is the cable fitment and alignment to the instrument. That square port should be clean all the way to its bottom, so the cable doesn't apply linear pressure or angular pressure. If you are working with the OEM cable, that square end can become slightly distorted or...

Clicking in speedometer can be a couple of things... Cable applying pressure in any direction can move parts inside the head, especially where the tiny bronze bushings are worn. Another is the odometer spool. Either should result in a needle twitch or jump. When you get the panel out, lay it so...

Consider this... The starter gets its power through a large gauge wire with very little compenents and/or connections to lower the voltage to the starter. Everything else is supplied by a much smaller wire with a crowd of things in its path to degrade the current path. As soon as ignition...

That is a noise suppression capacitor so yes it goes in the center female slot where 12 volts enters. Its purpose is to prevent a pop noise in radio speaker when mechanical limiters contacts open and close. many models have a similar noise suppression cap' somewhere in the ignition system. You...

I don't understand "oip" or "shas and heat" that you typed. As best I can tell the electrical side is working. The only gauge that is chassis grounded is the fuel gauge and that chassis ground is for the mechanical limiter. It is producing a pulse voltage but we don't know it is adequate voltage...