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Most of the aftermarket chrome tips I have seen are for Demon and/or other models. Those do stick out too far on the B'cudas.

These 2 conflicts with a right side exhaust pipe went away in 68 model.

The 67 model wasn't designed for dual exhaust. The trans cross member isn't clearance shaped on right side. The fuel tank strap routed left to right gets in the way too. Have fun.

yep, those crazy crooks at the bottom of this casting, along with the braces, disappeared by 66 or 67. Lesser turns are in the downpipe.

The early LA manifold on left side had about 90 degree turn at the bottom of it. One owner compared the restriction to pooping through a straw LOL. At the same time, a heat riser in the right manifold would close pushing more exhaust pressure to that left side, yet it seemed to work, good enough...

The heat shields were stamped so to serve as the gasket. Or one could say the gaskets were formed to be shields also. I have NOS left and right here in my 273 Commando parts collection. I would have to look again at the right one to see if the holes for left side extensions were stamped in it. I...

I've used hi temp RTV on clean dry parts without a problem. Most chemical sealants do require clean and dry. Teflon tape properly applied would be worth a try.

yep, only the 4 corner holes go into water jackets. Those were originally studs instead of bolts. Tight wouldn't stop a leak. They'll need some sort of sealant on them.

In most cases, ( you didn't say what engine ), OEM parts works together without conflict. Aftermarket stuff ( like headers ) is where conflicts are.

Anyone know if NOS left and right for 67 273 are the same ?

I use the manifold as a guide to get a good center. I forget what size the hole in that casting is.that's the size drill that creates my center though. Then I drill up to the 1/4 inch and clean up with the 5/16 tap. No helicoil req'd. Helicoil is doable but I would still use the manifold as a...

See that's why the year make and model should be stated from the beginning. A warmed air / heat stove isn't applicable to a 67 273. Need not have been mentioned. I have the same 273 heat shields here and they have the same gloss black on them. Its a higher gloss than we see on most sheet...

RTV here too. Give it ample time to cure though. That outgassing process is very slow where there isn't a lot of air circulation.

67 is different at trans cross member and at fuel tank support. to change listing to 68-74 would be closer to accurate.

Looks like all those pics are the same car. Definitely not a 67 A-body. All to often the aftermarket vendors learn from their dissatisfied customers.

Dual exhaust on a 67 model a-body never has been simple. That trans support member isn't designed for 2 pipes passing. That single left to right fuel tank strap is in the path too. End to end issues. Good luck with it.

Hood to cowl seal is also suspect.

The hole in the manifold is about 3/8. With it bolted in place it serves as a pilot for a 3/8 drill bit, then a 3/8 shank center drill ( #4 if my memory serves ). Grind away any stud remaining to flush with the head. center drill, then drill and tap to 5/16. Nothing hard was ever easy but it...

Years ago a local mopar man told me that they deleted what he called "their crazy crook" because it was too easily broken. A little better flow in through the cross over under intake was a side effect. He said, "They only made it that way for ease of assembly in the first place". That's all...

There is a difference in 273 manifolds for year models. The later ones do flow a little better than the earlier. Earlier left manifold had a nearly 90 degree crook at the bottom of it. Later is a shorter casting. Then a little different turn with the head pipe there helped flow a little. Not...

ok, full inch spacer should be plenty, even with a open cross over. When heat changes things I suspect percolating ethanol first. Unless the fuel is heating up before or on its way to the carb, the usual suspect isn't guilty. So... Power valve ? Secondary sticking partly open ?

.008 Fuel delivery is the problem. What carb and how thick is the spacer under it ?

I'm thinking fuel delivery too, although I question the exhaust being the cause. Had the car been on a road trip before going to muffler shop ? Or did this road trip get the intake and carb a lot hotter than it had been before ? If I'm right a stone cold start will show no problem.

I wouldn't attempt to shim the steering gear where it mounts to the K. Even where the steering gear is mounted right and tight it can work loose. Flat washers between there is asking for trouble in my opinion. Some of those other suggests could work.

78 was a good year for cast iron or metallurgy. LOL The fact that the heat riser is new draws my interest.

=manifold=))=nut=

for my 600 they would have to include heat riser and gaskets

When reports of OEM cast manifolds cracking appear, it is usually after 3 or more years of regular use. 90 Chevy p/u 350 exhaust manifold is a good example. If there is a fit and finish issue with these repops we would probably know about it by now. It might be a very long wait to learn they...

Could you change to a donut gasket type assembly ?

You have to be referring to the studs at each end of the LA head. end in water jackets. They always break. Here's what you do... Bolt the exhaust manifold back on the head. Now you have a 3/8 diameter pilot hole for centering your 3/8 drill bit or better yet the center drill with 3/8 shank ( I...