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I bought 16" Trico refills at Aweful Zone. These were actually a metric length and appoz' 3/16" short of 16". They just barely got into the end clips on the blade. I was afraid they might come out but they never did. They need replaced again now before my windshield is scared.

I put the same 5 OEM type U nuts in upside down under the gasket and same OEM type bolts in from bottom up. I don't think I'll ever need to remove the dash again but if I do it won't be as difficult.

divide metric by 25.4 to get inch. So your shaft diameter in metric of 28.55 divided by 25.4 gets you a 1.125 (1&1/8") shaft diameter.

price for NOS would be higher but... source a shaft seal from a industrial supply company per the dimensions required should find it for less.

I still say someone should design and produce complete covers to replace these doors. Functioning vent in it, directable and has a screen in it to serve as cabin air filter. Plus removable to get pine needles etc.., from behind it, clean the filter.

Yeah the Midland Ross booster is smaller diameter but longer and a dual stage booster. Some of the modern boosters, imports etc,, could fit and work with some mods to mounting.

Quarter window regulators in the convertibles are different also.

No inline fuse holder. The fuse and one wire goes to accessory slot of your fuse box. The other wire goes to the switch mounted on park brake mechanism. Switch smply supplies a ground to light bulb

You did a fine job.

Pretty much any new vehicle has both front and rear stabilizer bars. What people overlook is even if its still a unibody is has stiffening rails front to rear. That's so the 2 stabilizer bars dont twist the unibody chassis so bad that the dang doors dont close. Look at Mustang, even a RAV4. A...

I've found some of the harness retainers to be bare sheet metal. I put heat shrink tubing on them. The clips at my distributer cap have white heat shrink tips. Cute

I had the same problem. Only spot I ever found where my fuel line might have been getting a little air is where the rubber line attaches to the metal line at frame rail. OEM line had a crimped clamp on it. It was a little loose. Repairing that made no difference. Later models have the fuel...

Some of the switches have the breaker inside. My 67 switch finally failed completely. I took the switch apart and found the bimetal link cracked completely in two. I figured out how to add a cycling circuit breaker on the outside of that switch. Wipers would still run and stop, and run and stop...

If you want to bad enough, maybe something like this would work... https://www.grainger.com/product/DE-STA-CO-Latch-Clamp-3CXP1?opr=IDPPLARECS&analytics=PLAPDP_undefined

A seasoned master tech from a Dodge dealership in Ohio moved here and worked with me at local ford dealership. He taught me much, including the instrument voltage limiter inside a 3 post gauge. That was early 1980s. Some earlier models had the limiter was inside the temperature gauge instead of...

They cut that hole in this board larger and square and used that odd clip instead of a nut, all to vent some heat out of the gauge with limiter inside. By 1967 they figured out this wasn't necessary. The 67 board has round hole, same speedy nut on the stud, and bakelite cap over the stud and...

I worked at a few different machine shops. I did take a couple of jobs to Halls during and after working there. I needed to shorten the right wiper pivot 3/4 " for stereo clearance in my custom dash. Halls shortened and bored that cast pivot for me. Milled 2 flats on the shortened pivot shaft...

Years ago when I needed the bushings for inside the wiper pivots I found them online. I dont recall where exactly. The linkage bushings just might be on a shelf somewhere too. Search oilite or sintered bronze bushings. I.D. X O.D. X L.

I may be wrong but I dont think there is a pitman arm that will attach a late model power steering box to the early A steering linkage. The hex nut below the pitman arm should measure 1&1/8. My guess is only the power steering pump, brackets, pulley, are from the diplomat.

Yep, some other models may still be available. It would be costly to learn if another application will work in a-body. From what I've read, the one facility that produced the glass channel run burned down. It could be several more months before something usable will appear in aftermarket. Their...

I remove interior door panels and alter the glass travel stop cam on the regulator. The glass will roll farther down into the door so felts R&R easier. The glass channel run kits and the guides alone have been sold out for quite a while now. One member here claimed he used the loop side of...

Another reason the OEM sender isn't linear is the thermal gauge. Most common is a 20 ohm gauge. It has approx' 13 inches of nickle-chromium resistor wire that measures 1.5 ohms per inch at 68 degrees. As it heats up its per inch resistance changes. This is why half the 80-10 range and needle...

The OEM mechanical limiter would put out more juice at switch on so the gauge needles would climb faster. The Real Time Engineering unit was designed to mimic the mechanical gauge voltage limiters operation. Less expensive universal regulators do work if slow gauges dont bother you.

The mechanical gauge voltage limiter is probably the culprit. A volt meter would confirm if it is supplying a pulse voltage or not. The instrument panel isn't so difficult to remove. Disconnect the battery before you begin. 2 large wires on amp gauge are hot at all times. At the workbench you'll...

Temp sender wire is purple/violet. You could ground it in the engine bay and turn power on. Gauge needle should travel to 'H' if limiter is working. Brake warning lamp and oil warning lamp get their ground at those remote switches so instrument housing ground would not be a factor for those...

Does the temp gauge work? If not the voltage limiter or its ground could be the problem. Your circuit board has the limiter in lower right corner. A screw in the board to housing beneath it starts the daisy chain of a chassis ground path. If the lights and other things in the panel work we know...

Ford and GM owners can buy replacement booted fuel sender terminals. My search never finds Chrysler though. I think the difference is size of the contact post. Chrysler is #10 where those others are #8. A Mustang owner will pay 19 USD and up for a reproduction terminal with some length of wire...

Yes the IVR can be mounted anywhere you choose but must be chassis grounded. Out of the IVR is 5 volts. You must add a wire for it since you dont have one. What color the wire casing is makes no difference. It should go to the fuel gauge post at top center, not the 12 volt post, not the sender...

Real Time Engineering MOPAR Products offers solid state regulator to replace the OEM mechanical voltage limiter. Most recent threads on this subject are about 65 Dart. Pretty much same as your Barracuda.

Not just any ring terminal will make a good connection beneath the pizzy stamped speedy nuts. Home Depot and others have the 10-32 hex nuts and internal toothed washers ( just like what is on the amp gauge. Another 2 dollars to spend). A ring terminal followed by a toothed washer and hex nut on...