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Just wow. I can't imagine a universal joint mating the stirring stick to the R&P as shown. Even if it did, the joint wouldn't last very long. I know ratrod like builds aren't engineered to go 100K miles anyway. I haven't seen everything modern technology and/or aftermarket offers today either...

Low fluid will become aerated and pump will whine. If this is a recent system makeup, maybe just get the air out of it and fill level correct.

A long while back there were aftermarket flex plates with a sticker on them, ( said "engine side" I think ) and that sticker had been placed on the wrong side. Theoretically, flex plate bolts would hit on a quarter revolution. The counter weight casting shape of the crank would hit at just...

So all I can think of is the bottom of that hole doesn't need to be purdy. So what I imagine is drill to just a 32nd or so short of breaking through then cleaning the bottom with a flat nose drill or end mill, then punch out the bottom slug. You would still drop the slug waste in the pan but...

Why not just visit a bone yard and pick out something you like?

love the vents. Are they adjustable at all ?

Another header related headache. Soooo typical here huh ? Anyway... A long time ago, GM installed a single oil sender with more than one wire attached. It operated a warning lamp or gauge but also told the ECM "no oil, prevent start, hold check engine light on". When the engines got well worn...

That 6 to 8 degrees was pointed out before. If my memory serves it was stated that every stock cam grind had the same slight retard incorporated. There was a mechanical principle involved but I can't recall what/where. Timing chain stretch, crank twist, rod length growth, something. Anyway...

That's still not right. Alternator field and the voltage regulator should be supplied by blue w/white tracer from ignition switch.

You lost me at keyed wire on brake light switch. I don't know of that. Good luck though

I can convert it to a volts gauge for you if you want.

Someone should design thin LED display panel that operates off Chry' late model OEM senders and mount on the back of the sun visor. Fold the visor up and its gone. A 'T' for 2 senders would be required at each location. Then the pizz poor range indicators/gauges in our classic instrument...

I see now that this post is in hemi swap forum. I understand the need for all the 30 amp or higher circuits in the late model vehicles these engine belonged to. Very few of those circuits have anything to do with the engine itself. Just ignore me.... Good luck to all.

no alternator will put out more voltage then what is called for regardless its capabilities. While all the current inside the cabin does go through the ALT' gauge, that's all that goes through it. If you intend to add equipment that will require a higher output alternator... fine. That...

Those who have put this engine setup in stock K members have notched that frame rail or relocated the alternator. I don't know why a aftermarket K would make a difference in drive line angle.

The rear offset isn't the same factor. That is a wheel base stagger for thrust angle. Rear offset in drive line offset would be like Ford and others have one axle shorter than the other where the engine is centered in the bay. Any drive line offset is related to the life of universal joints as...

The drive line is supposed to be offset to the right.

In most cases there is a fault somewhere, like a intermittent short to ground that causes this. A friends Chevy pickup is a perfect example but the whole story on it is more than I care to type. Who ever installed the Autozone 350 didn't do a very good job of putting the wiring back in looms and...

bad plug or bad plug wire. That cylinder has been passing raw fuel. I doubt it would cause a mechanical problem. Good luck with it.

Electrical problems are always found in the last place you look. If there was 5 or 10 minutes run time before the melt down you'll need to check the wiring to the starter. Wires melted to a header, a short at or inside the starter/silinoid. There are threads here where the entire car is being...

Interested in details... Power of manual steering ? Which Jeep manifolds ( casting numbers ) ? and more pics of both sides if and when. Thanks

Love the fish. Happy moparing

That's my thinking too. My 67 fish has waaaaay too many emblems. They'll stay on the red car but if I ever build the vert most of those wax collecting badges will be deleted.

I have to think you would need both temp sensor for the computer and a correct sender for the gauge.

Caution; Imagination at work... If there isn't a good place for a larger opening along the top of the rocker covers, couldn't you 45 or 90 degree through the side or end of the cover ?

Wait, Charger LX as in a late model ? I'm clueless, sorry

Same throttle cable problem others have with engine swaps ? Just a wild guess. Good luck

I also converted my amp gauge to a volt gauge. There is a little rewiring required.

I dont know what I could say to inspire you. How about this, I want to drive it when its ready. If amything would cause me to dream of spending so much on my old Plymouth... I cant understand why they wouldn't or couldn't move the engine about an inch forward. Good luck with it.

A basic test light will kill a wheel speed sensor. Diagnose with multimeter only. The more you know :)