Search results for query: *

I had a drinking buddy that used to say that all the time.

Try Doug's Headers. D453 I think. You can also order them uncoated if you think ya might want to monkey with them.

I didn't say it was a smart idea. Lol.

It's much more thrilling to let someone else do a burnout in your car while you film it. :thumbsup:

Cool beans. Post up on this thread when you get her going.

Sorry, I wasn't questioning his or your expertise. I just know that things are different on the street than they are in a dyno cell. I was just trying to help you suss out your minor inconvenience. I'm thinking your idle is a bit much for a stroker with that cam. When I last had my 416 running...

Chassis dyno?

That seems like a lot of idle speed. I'm thinking you need to work your carb more. How much does your vacuum change when you put it in gear? Are you sure your mechanical advance isn't coming in and out of play at those speeds?

If you want to use the stainless braided cable, you can slide some clear tubing (think cheap overflow hose) over the area that comes close to the bulkhead and it won't be as obvious.

Damn son, you need to get out more.:poke:

Took me a sec without coffee, but yeah. The reluctor and rotor are on the distributor shaft with the mechanical advance. The magnetic pick up is on the breaker plate that the vac advance pulls on.

Oh you are doing way better than me. I usually end up ordering from Rockauto, Summit, Amazon whatever, because I can't find it local and need it within a few days. So, after getting it right away, it takes me a month to get back to it.....

Keep in mind that if your bearings are hammered your oil pressure won't be a reliable indicator of what the initial failure was.

May not be your problem, but I've known a few big block Chevies that would knock the nose right off the starter at 20° initial.

Man, some people will do anything to have an excuse to build a stroker. Kidding, good luck with the teardown, let us know what you find.

Ya know, if ya had just pulled the head and bought a new pair of head gaskets, you'd be installing that bad boy right now. How do I know? Because I do the same thing everytime. I had no idea I had so many brothers. :lol:

Do you have a thread where you posted the specs on your engine?

OK, you tune the engine to work with the vacuum advance connected. You don't "get" the distributor to work with manifold vacuum, it already will.

Look dude, you were asked very specific questions about your engine/car/combo/intended purpose. You pretty much skipped answering any of them just getting it was STOCK 5.9 Magnum and some wazoo double pumper carb was painful and like pulling teeth. How long did it take you to say you had a...

Douche Bag? Really? Go buy your lean burn distributor, I'm sure your car will run perfect.

Do you realize how much of this back and forth could have been avoided if you had been up front with your problem and answer the questions that were asked of you? There are some incredibly smart people (not me, I'm not that smart) here that are trying to help. Try listening. If you have a stock...

It's a pretty carb, but it is conpletely wrong for your engine. It's completely wrong for your intake. I wanna race your tuner.

Stock 5.9?

What carb? Vacuum secondaries?

Here's a clue.... He's got a Holley carb that doesn't have a timed vacuum port.

So when you're accelerating the car hits two grand and then falls on its face? Are you talking full throttle?

Does it run on the distributor you have now? Just don't hook up the vacuum advance.

Elaboration included.

OK, we'll go with that. You are asking the wrong question. You don't adjust the vacuum advance to work with manifold vacuum. You tune the engine to work with the vacuum advance that uses manifold vacuum. Have a good evening.

Car? Gears? Stock cam? Which model Holley? You don't have a distributor problem, you have a vacuum problem. (For the most part).