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And wow this is a damn old thread.

Those aren't bad prices for what it is.

See what happens when I try to do tech help and watch "Hell on Wheels" at the same time? Del beats me to it.....

Yep, 4 wheel drum brake systems don't use prop valves. The adjustable in your rear line should do just fine. Your going to have to figure out which part of your system isn't working for you. Try disconnecting the brake lines at the master, get some brass fittings and block the ports at the...

That block is a pressure differential switch. It's not a proportioning valve. It shouldn't affect bleeding of the brakes. Is the dash warning light on? I can't say I have ever seen one suck in air. It could happen, but I would bet that you would be seeing it leak, also. You did bench bleed the...

The arms are out there. I think I've even seen some in the for sale ads recently. Aftermarket arms aren't a bad deal either.

Done it. Running it. Works fine. Drive on.

Just out of curiosity, did the 11" rotors not stop the vehicle from 150 mph? I'm guessing there is a caliper and pad upgrade with the bigger rotor install, also. That's a really nasty crack on the 13" rotor right on the vane. Have you tried the cryogenic rotors?

http://www.rotorpros.net/index.htm

So, you're the guy I get to blame.....:D

Not entirely accurate information. All brake material transfers itself to the rotor. It's why you turn rotors when doing a brake job and it's why you "bed in" your brakes when you do a brake job. The deal with rotors cracking when they are cross drilled comes from the holes not being...

That's almost bad advice. Really, if you're going to upgrade to four wheel disc brakes, wouldn't you want to optimize them? Yes, remove the prop valve and metering block or combination valve. Replace them with an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line. Tune your brakes to work best for...

If I'm not mistaken, most new manufactured masters don't have residual check valves in them anymore. The reason for the check valves was to keep pressure against the cups in the wheel cylinders so they didn't suck air. Most all wheel cylinders have cup expanders in them now so the check valves...

Pin or slider calipers? If pin type, get flex lines for a 70-72 E/B body.

http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html This is basically how I did mine (With the exception of B body spindles).

If you're using Pin type calipers, you need to use 70-72 B/E body hoses.

Yep, that's the one. I have a hard time flipping around on links using my phone at work. I'm old, it's a tech thing.

I've run them on my 69 Valiant for years. No problem at all. I do also have a set of 73 Duster spindles that I've been meaning to try just for giggles. I'm still waiting on Rob to post the Big Block Dart link. (Can't do it from my phone).

Oh so true. I keep forgetting about that spindle war thing. Big Block Dart has the graphs and all that info on the FMJ spindles. Heck, it's what I run on my Valiant. :D The Mopar Action tech article is still probably one of the best resources for us on the interweb. Spindles not withstanding....

OH, and read the Mopar Action link listed above, first. It's a great source of base knowledge to start out.

Pssst, hi and welcome. You might try looking for brake parts. Looking for break parts only leads to stuff you gotta fix. :D

Not some luck, but you just pointed right at the problem. The car IS 50 years old with over 100K miles. That's well beyond the service life of the rubber items in that brake system. For that matter, the hardlines should be inspected closely. Keep in mind, brake fluid sucks up moisture like a...

If you crack a bleeder screw now without stepping on the pedal, do you still have pressurized fluid?

^^^^^^^This x2! For the record, even the residual valves in the master (if it even still has them) only hold about ten psi. It's to keep the cups in the wheel cylinder expanded and keep air from being sucked in. At best it will only cause a light drag on a disc brake caliper of the size...

pump up your pedal and get the front brakes to lock. then crack open the lines at the master. If you have pressure there. It's the master. Or a pedal/pushrod adjust.

Have you check your lines as Del suggested? Check the hard lines also. Have they been replaced? Do both front brakes lock up?

All of the units that I have installed had pressure switches on them. They would get to a predetermined level and shut off the pump until needed again. There are alternatives, such as hydroboost or an electric brake booster.

Doesn't Master Power Brake offer repop upper arms, also?

Um, no. Pedal ratio is different between manual and power brakes and master bore sizes are usually different also. I now refer you to Pascal's Law on fluid dynamics. I agreed that you can stop a power brake car with out power. It is not a safe thing to do or recommend to someone that they...

Not the best advice. The pedal geometry between a power brake car and a manual brake car are different. Very different. Doing this compromises your safety and the safety of others around you.