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That's one size above honkin'.

Dude, you're gonna crap when you see what you have to cut to install a factory manual hump. I know I did. If you can afford one of the Tremec kits out there, go that route and don't look back. Don't just shop price, though. Look at how complete the kits are, what they include and what they...

Just an opinion, but for what your doing, go with the stock mechanical linkage. Do yourself a favor and reinforce the fender apron where the outside pivot stud goes and consider a torque strap on the engine. The stock linkage can have issues and bind if the engine moves around too much. If you...

How to make torque boxes

The thing to remember on the t56 is that it is a double overdrive. 5th gear is around a .74 and 6th is .50. You will have to do some serious freeway to use those gears. Both the TKO and the T56 require some cutting to install. The T56 takes up a lot of real estate. If you are comparing prices...

Not just slides in, make sure it spins freely. It might even be worth the time to make sure the center bore on the bell is lined up with the crankshaft. I've done conversions where the input slid in, but it bound up, sometimes to the pilot bushing not having the proper i.d., or some cases where...

Did you grab the flywheel and all that, too? That gets expensive fast. Your engine should be neutral balanced as should the 340. (except late 340s with cast cranks). Which ever way you go, whichever pilot bushing/input shaft combo you end up with, test fit it without a clutchplate or pressure...

diaphragm clutch, remove the spring. diaphragm clutch, remove the spring. diaphragm clutch, remove the spring. If it really matters, you will possibly weaken the pressure plate diaphragm, burn the TO bearing, possibly overrev the engine. diaphragm clutch, remove the spring. diaphragm...

You're gonna hate me for this.... I don't have the exact measurement. 5/8" sounds about right. What I always did was to install the bell without the clutch or flywheel installed. Measure from the trans mounting face of the bell to the bottom of the converter register in the crank. Transfer...

I've done the bearing with several conversions (including 5&6 speeds), it's a viable option. Just make sure the shaft isn't hanging up in the crank.

Recheck your drive shaft angles, too.

You really should check your belly run out and make sure you have the right bellhousing and bearing retainer match. Seeing how you went with the bearing, is you crank drilled for a bushing? Or, the better question, it it finished machined for a bushing? The pilot shaft could be hanging up in...

Aren't A body boosters mounted on a offset bracket? A clutch master should mount in line with the original clutch pedal rod. With the right mounting, a clutch master can actually be mounted on a down angle which should help the fitment even better.

Good to hear. Sorry, I forgot to mention that spring is more lethal than an ex-wife with her eye on your checkbook.

oversimplified, but..... Diaghram clutch cover.... Borg and Beck.....

Did you put a diaghram style clutch plate in? If you did, remove the over-center spring on the clutch pedal (It's that big son of a buck).

And you WILL feel it.

If the balance is off, you're going to feel it. Trust me. McLeod lists three different weights for their flywheels (besides neutral). If you check their flywheel part numbers, there is a suffix code. It's going to list for a 360, 440 cast crank and 440 sixpack. Get the right weight and put in in...

3.09? Holy crap, what is your split through the rest of the gears? The Richmond is a 3.28 first gear, but there is four more gears to get to the 1.1 final drive. I'm just thinking RPM drop between shifts, I don't know what you like or what works for you. I've done both the Tremec and the...

http://www.richmondgear.com/01fivespeed.html My bad, they do have an OD trans now. What I like about the non OD version is that the first four gears are steeper which gives you excellent accelleration with a fwy rear (say 3.0). Fifth gear is straight through the mainshaft as opposed to...

I like the Richmond. A little noisey, but they shift great. It's been a few years since I've installed one, but the surgery can't be any worse than a TKO in an A body. IIRC, final drive is a 1 to 1 and you just run a highway friendly rear gear.

I've seen this before, but it has been a way long time ago and I can't recall the problem off the top of my head. Maybe it's a geometry thing and you are over centering the diaghram? Try losening the freeplay on the pedal until the clutch just disengages when you depress it. It's not a fix, but...

Does the pedal stick to the floor?

Only help I can offer is to unbolt the heim at the pedal, adjust and reinstall. The rod in the master does spin, so you can try and adjust one threaded end at a time, leaving the jam nut tight on the other end.

Isn't that spring supposed to go from the fork to the bellhousing?

The new bearing goes in the converter register part of the crank. It works very well if your crank isn't drilled. The downside being you have to cut about a half inch off of your input shaft. Kim's right, you could use the late bearing and not worry about the old one stuck in the crank. Or, you...

Hell, I'm on the list to get a stronger wallet.....

Absolutely none of the current offerings are a direct bolt in. When this unit hits the shelf, I'm going to push hard on a few folks I know, and try to get one for myself, also.

Looks to be about 4300 bucks. Available in the late spring.....

As far as A bodies go the 11" is going to be grief from start to finish. Do all the work to get that puppy in there with whatever bell and guess what. Because it's a 143 tooth flywheel, the starter mounts farther out and you will have header fit problems. Did this with a B and my header choices...