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What shape is the motor in? Is the timing chain good, decent compression? Are the plug gaps correct?

You won't know till you get it out. I think the plug is a softer alloy then the head. I picked up a plug thread chase a while ago, they are worth their weight in gold! I think you'll be ok , the chase cleaned up the threads on my head.

I'd run a ground from the battery to the engine block, 4 ga. or larger. then from the block to the body. I've had a bad starter do that also. If you have another you might want to swap it out and try that. You need a larger battery feed then 8 gauge, that is only good for 40 amps. I bet that hot...

These are 12 v Red LEDS and will be going in my dash this summer.

Thanks everyone, I ordered the tape and will get a 3/32 allen driver. I have the old motor running great, the problem is to much overall advance. It pings climbing the hill.

I have 2 questions, can anyone tell me the size of the allen wrench I need to adjust the advance in the vacuum canister. The second, I'm looking for the best timing tape to use on my harmonic balancer and what cement/glue is best to use? I've heard about using clearcoat to fix it. Thanks for the...

One quick question, auto or manual? The NSS goes from the 3 pin connector (auto trans) to the starter relay. It's the center contact on the trans connector if I remember right. You can use a ohm meter to check it. One side to ground and the other to the harness. One of the leads will be grounded...

I don't think you shorted anything out, you have a open circuit. Probably the fusible link or battery lead. Check for voltage at your starter relay. A short circuit would be draining the battery and raising a hell of a lot of smoke and flames.

The battery connections could be loose, clean and tighten them. The ground cable is next on the list to check. Clean and retighten that. Take a volt meter and check the voltage from the hot (+) on the battery to the frame/engine, it should read 13.8 on a full charge. If you get nothing check...

Ditto

Type of car and year??

Do you have a vacuum gauge? Check the vacuum at the carb port , it will give you a clue if it is the intake leaking into the lifter galley.

Radio Shack used to have them, check their web site.

Just a side note, while your car is running and headlights are on check the voltage at the bulb connector. The voltage drop is about 2++ volts on average. The relays with a larger feed (#12 or #14) will get 13.8 volts to the bulb and a much brighter headlight. This and a new bulb and I think...

I use a good set of sealed beam headlights, feed them through high current relays and had them aimed by a good shop. They work every bit as good as my new Accord. Could they be better, probably but they are more then I need for the way I drive.

Have you checked for spark and fuel? I bet you'll find one is missing when it dies! It could be the ignition module or coil, or a fuel pump. You won't know till you do a little diagnostic work.

Check your battery connections, I bet one is loose! Also check the ground from the battery to the engine block and positive to the starter solenoid. Another problem is the fusible link near the firewall. Good luck!

Start with the basics, in the accesories position are they pegged? When the engine is running check the voltage. It should be around 13-15 volts, a fully charged battery is 13.8. I would think you have fried the regulator for the gauges, you'll have to pull the dash to get at it. Just check the...

You have to check the voltage on the output of the ballast resistor, also check the voltage on the input of the coil. To do this the ignition key must be in the run position. My opinion is the "brain" (ignition module) is toast. Try reseating the plug on it. Does it try to fire when your...

X2, try to hook up a vacuum guage and time for maximum vacuum for now.

The dealers used to. The last time I bought one was a "few" years ago.

Wouldn't it blow the fuse if it was drawing too much? Maybe your alternator or regulator is going.

X3, Start with a crank trigger, and think about individual coils for each cylinder. You'll get a longer saturation time and a more stable spark thru the RPM range.

NoLox, you can get it at Home Depot in the electrical dept. I use it on all connections.

I seem to remember there are coils out there designed to run on 13 volts, it's been a while but I believe they were used in industrial use. I'll have to look..The problem might be that the pickup in the distributor might not live at 13 volts.

I had a similar problem with a Grand AM, it turned out the motor mounts were soft and the engine settled lower and pinched a wiring harness. I replaced the mounts and had a friend (runs a repair shop) fix the wiring. He had a lift and it was much easier for him. It would come and go, just like...

They are meant to run with a heat sink. Radio Shack used to sell them, be sure to get the silicon grease and insulator tab with it.

Sounds like a bad resisiter

Parallel, not in series. Positive side to lamp lead and negative side to ground. A capacitor will only pass ac, it will store DC.

Check your ballast resistor, it might be bad.