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Missing or broken return spring on the TP lever will cause varying degrees of late shifts at light throttle.

If you ever worked in a trans shop you would see that almost every day. Front seal can go bad, or even pop out. Pump gasket can leak. Pump bushing can go, causing the seal to leak. A cracked converter snout can make it where you need a new pump, gears, bushing, seal and converter. Not meant to...

The thick weights only. The little thin ones if any were for the initial balancing, and not for crank balance.

Pulled the axles and it was quiet and smooth? Um, two years ago or not it points to axle bearings. It sure is easy to check em while they’re out.

How far and at what speed do you need to move it? There is an acceptable distance with the driveshaft installed. I believe the trans is basically in neutral when there is no electrical power to it.

Usually at the top of the pump housing itself behind the converter. Some have the vent in the top of the case behind the pump and converter.

I left that out because he said he was changing the filter and fluid soon. :D

Absolutely it could be low fluid. The smell doesn’t sound very good either. The shaking was likely clutches slipping. Did you know that a 904 or 727 either one will spit out fluid if it’s overly full? Doesn’t hurt it either. Put another half a quart in it and see how it acts.

Should be exactly the same, since everything involved is exactly the same.

So simple a caveman can do it. :D

Been running Type F in my A500 for almost ten years of daily driving with zero issues. Just like the 727 and 904, these things would run on used french fry oil.

I have to agree. 40 mph off isn’t something a gear change is going to fix. Something is wrong with the speedo head.

The simplified answer is if you have to move the shifter for it to shift at all, it’s probably a manual valve body. I agree about the pin sticking up not having a lever on it for a long time, so it may very well be a manual shift race setup, which is common. If you put the rear up on stands and...

If you’re trans has been modified to full manual then its fine like it is with no (throttle pressure) accessories. If it’s an automatic shifting trans then you MUST have that hooked up and working or you WILL burn up the trans. The simplest way of getting it hooked up is to use a cable...

Late, but better than never. I have a thing about any rubber in trans lines because that’s what caused the loss of my 440 69 Roadrunner. It blew a line and I went to get new line and fluid. When I got back it had every panel including the roof caved in and it was on fire. (Total loss) That...

Black material in the pan can be/is normal. Chunks of black is bad. What makes the black pasty stuff is where the fluid pressure in the converter wears the aluminum fins. Perfectly normal to see that in a trans. Unscrupulous shops use that to scare customers into buying a rebuild they don’t...

The main issue I have with coolers is the use of rubber lines. Been there, done that and never again.

1. The factory low/reverse servo is fairly thin and can crack. The aftermarket accumulators often have 2 rows of sealing rings and are billet instead of cast. (Not needed for your purposes) 2. Not cracking under big loads is their purpose. 3. Again for your purpose stock is fine. 4. Instead...

Now see? I have heard a few variations of the screaming monkey, so I laughed when the wife’s car did it. She called me an A hole.

I got in trouble with the wife one day when we were cruising her dart and the speedo let out a scream akin to a monkey high on meth. She about changed lanes instantly. Scared the crap out of her. Yea, I laughed.

Ahaha, sorry I just had to laugh at another Mopar speedo issue. Been there and done that enough to say F it and just deal with it. If I really need a speedo to tell me how fast I’m going I check the GPS speedometer on my phone. 40 is actually 35. Ok then, send it.:D

That sounds right. Thanks

There are two different lengths of switches, but I don’t remember which is which.

The A body requires a minor dent or two in the floor and a modded crossmember upper hoop and trans mount. Been running the 42RH with OD and lockup both for years in my Dart. The spool type trans mount makes it pretty easy.

727 yoke and 7290 joint if I remember correctly.

I don’t see a problem. It looks like it might have broken a band at some point in its life causing the scrapped up area, but it wont hurt functionality at all.

I don’t know how many actually know this, but the rollers in that type of sprag are not actually rollers. They are actually in a mostly fixed position and only slide against the hub until the hub tries to turn the opposite direction, then they jamb the hub stopping it from turning via the...

Absolutely normal.

I have always had a thing about using the correct name for everything unless I was just joking around. Eldebrock drives me nuts, as does any other term turned inside out or otherwise butchered. The frickin letters are right there, it’s Edelbrock dammit. I know it’s not always the case, but to me...

A zombie dead gear thread. Back but different.:D