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It’s common to remove the ONE heavy spring and replace it with the light spring. This brings in the total (without vacuum) to all in about 2,500 rpm or so.

In upper rpms the mechanical advance is probably maxed out, so any further spring changes will likely make zero difference. Try the 16 position of your advance plate. 38 total seems a bit too much anyway. Or, just pull the base timing back a couple of degrees. That will bring your total down as...

If the woodruff key is there and in good condition, I wouldn’t worry about it since you have a good torque on it. I might be tempted to do a little blue loctite on the bolt threads. Don’t over torque it. Too risky.

Back to drivability. One of my best drivability cars was a lincoln mark 4. Everything worked, it rode fantastic, was extremely comfortable and was a power house if needed. It wasn’t fun, but it was reliable and comfortable. One of the most fun cars was a 70 Roadrunner with a built 440 and a...

To me, good drivability is how the car does what you want and when you want. It should just flow smoothly from the moment you turn the key to braking to park. No matter how much power it has. I have driven some pretty fast street cars that were generally horrible in the drivability aspect, but...

You pull the pan. Better than the possible alternatives.

It depends on the rope size obviously. I use 1/4 nylon and with the piston still down a ways I feed about 3 feet in, and then bring the piston up on the compression stroke until it stops. This ensures there is enough rope in the cylinder to hold both valves securely closed and up so there will...

I say use the cam that gives you the best torque numbers.

I agree that it’s not a disaster just yet. Most likely just ran enough to condense a little. The very first little bit out of the oil drain would tell, since coolant sinks to the bottom of oil.

I have a set of those NZ castings on my Magnum. Everything I have seen says about 230 on flow, and 173 or so ports. This is apparently in out of the box condition with 1.92 intake valves. Your 2.02’s probably flow better than that.

And is why I laughed when I twisted my driveshaft off, instead of being annoyed. :D I was having fun.

Pretty much the same here. I’m a 5.9 guy because of the availability and low cost for good quality. A 340 that needs parts and machining to be strong and reliable is going to cost a lot more just to be able to say it’s a 340. Now if I had a rare car that originally had one, it would be...

I’d do the same with the Harleys.:D

A lot of people are into the 340 just because of the nostalgia and ability to tell others they have a 340. If I had one I would sell it. Same with a Hemi.

I think it would be a lot simpler to get a Magnum core and add the mechanical fuel pump kit if you want to run a mechanical pump. I don’t know though, you could probably find a stock Magnum cam on here that someone pulled out. Then have them send it directly to Oregon for you. Maybe?

FYI, I had my stock 5.9 cam reground a whole lot cheaper with the specs I posted above. It was less than 200, and I had to get longer pushrods. Oregon cam grinders did it.

I am also running the Hughes 1110 springs and positive seals. 214/224 @.512 lift with 1.6 rockers roller cam and factory Magnum lifters with factory rockers. The locks and retainers are from Hughes and are from a V6 that give more retainer to stem seal clearance. I don’t remember the part...

Ah yes, but it wasn’t lean. There was just lots of unburned oxygen. I got tricked by that once. Motor started hiccuping and showed really high numbers on the AFR gauge so I thought it was the fuel pump dying. Turns out it was a failing ignition module and not a lack of fuel. Unburned 02 was...

All those would go in the trash here.

The Wife’s 72 Dart 318 and my 73 Dart 5.9

GM one wire alternators are a simple solution to charging and regulator problems that some can’t, or don’t want to deal with. Also, as already mentioned they are available anywhere.

Being this happened under someone else’s supervision the very first thing I would do is verify the plug wires firing order. (Just in case no one mentioned it yet)

All great advice above. If you plan on hedders there is one protrusion on the drivers side of the block that needs cut or ground off for the hedder flange to sit flat against the head, and it’s way easier to get it before the motor is in. Ask me how I know. I bought a 1996 and the heads were...

CCV? How?

We had a couple of cars that had a valve cover leaking and it would soak into the exhaust manifold gaskets. Those would smoke for about 5 minutes until it burned the oil out, then clear up.

Could also be flywheel to crankshaft bolts. From the description of how it “comes and goes” it isn’t a rod or piston. Lifter noise can come and go with temp changes, and change with an additive. Rod and piston noises don’t come and go generally. They would sound one way cold then change as the...

5.9 mag short block Aftermarket heads Reground cam Stainless valves Hughes springs Aluminum intake Aluminized hedders 770 Holley Street Avenger Manufactured aluminum V covers. Right at 3k total.

15 bucks 5 or so years ago, and still going strong on a daily driver. Can’t beat that.

First thought is that it has a rear main seal leak. So far no indication of the trans leaking. Of course it’s possible the leak is actually higher up, like a manifold leak, or valve cover, or even an oil sender. Get ready to have people telling you to tear everything apart and rebuild it.:D...

I went back and watched that part again and it either wasn’t running or that’s the smoothest idle I have ever seen. Plug wires were even dead still. But yea, whatever.:D