Search results for query: *

WAY too easy. :D I’ve been mechanicin most of my life and have gotten them switched. I knew as soon as I fired it off who screwed up.

Lots of guessing with near zero information.

Cold fluid flows slower than hot fluid. (soft shifts when cold) and trying to compensate with idle speed because of a rough running motor can cause harsh shifts, so for now just deal with the running quality and the shift engagement issue will probably go away. Sounds to me like the carb is...

Upside of not running a cover with an automatic is that the converter spinning creates quite the wind in the bellhousing. No cover means that wind is constantly being refreshed with cooler air removing heat from the converter, bell housing, and back of the motor. Downside is a little more dust...

Pretty much any way you look at it those rubber caps SUCK, and don't last very long before splitting. Even a faked heater hose capped just inside the firewall with a PEX brass plug would look fine and be a lot more trustworthy.

Keep it out of OD and let the engine run to it's highest HP producing RPM's. AND make sure you have tires that are up to it, like mentioned.

Also make sure your exhaust didn't get bent closed somewhere farther up.

That port looks nice and is pretty much done as far as shaping, right? I have been watching everything I can find about porting why's and where's, so I'm just going by what I have learned. Pretty cool that you can see it exposed in 3D.

Yeow, that sucks. I hate to ask because I don't want to come across like I never screw up:D but how did it not occur to you that the valves might hit?

I'd bet it went over to the pistons house and they both went to visit Mr. oil pan. That sucks man. Do you suppose all those chunks in the valley came out through that crack? Looks like it.

I remember seeing your car in the show. Congratulations on even being able to do such an event. I would like to go just for the cruises to the different tracks, but I really don't have any interest in racing my Dart. How do you get a mid day nap doing an event like that? :D

The bottom one is externally balanced, so if you have an internal balance on the motor and a neutral flex plate you are going to have a vibration.

There are some oddball things we find out that no one hardly even believes it's possible. Way back when these cars were fairly new (as in the late 60's early 70's) my Dad told me you couldn't blow up a stock 318 if it was in decent condition in the first place. He put his foot to the floor in...

I got 17 with a 318-4 barrel and 904 trans. 25 or so with the 5.9 and Dakota OD.

And make sure the coil wire isn't burning the center core down inside the wire.

Secondary jetting maybe? A new carb was mentioned.

When I was younger my Dad used to give me all kinds of crap for modding things. He would say "It was made that way for a reason you know" My answer was always "If they would have made it right in the first place I wouldn't have to mod it" :D

I always tell people the one RPM before it blows up is the safe RPM.

Hot exhaust needs less opening than incoming cold air, so don't forget to add that into your equation also. :D

Sure sounds like it doesn't. Or even if it does and it's working the high idle might not be set. This sound suspiciously like the post where the person never had a carbed engine before and didn't know you have to pump the gas once or twice to get some fuel in the engine and get the choke set...

With your ears. :D My smartass gets loose sometimes.

Absolutely.

That sounds like it could be an issue where the fuel shifting in the bowls is affecting the idle mixture. It happens. Extensions may very well be the answer after all. Oh, just saw the low float post. :D Low float and fuel moving combined could very well be why it tries to die at hard stops.

No, none of us have ever had to deal with an engine miss before. :D You really should pull that connection (bulkhead connector) and clean those contacts at the very least. It can cause a lot more problems than a miss.

Wonder where the refund people are?

Pretty comon for a hydraulic lifter to tick, and one of the tricks is to try the product Seafoam. If the lifter has something (carbon) or such stuck in it the Seafoam will usually clear it. If that doesn't do it then you may have to replace at least the offending lifter.

Seems like it was an RX7 with a 360 in it that was on here awhile ago.

Idle timing is still set with a light or guage (probably a light unless you read up on doing it with a vac guage.) Total or "All in" timing is usually set by limiting the advance weights in the distributor so it does not go way past your desired total timing when you set your base timing...

It's only a little farther away for it to get into the intake runner than it is to get into the oil. Good that you are not seeing any in the motor though. May be it's just condensation burning off and it's just going to far advanced on the timing. Do you know what your total timing is?

Totally agree with ya there KO If the smoke disappears it's steam, and if it drifts away it's oil. Sounds like you have an intake leak at the water jacket ports at the very least. Might want to also pull the oil plug just a little and see if coolant comes out, as it will destroy the bearings...