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I think he means that since he took it to someone there won’t be any surprises and everything will be just fine. He’s more of an optimist :D Really though, it’d be cool if he’s right.

And then he is in for a valve job. Both requiring machine shop labor. At that point might as well get the head resurfaced while it’s there. I thought he was asking if he could avoid all that cost. From the looks of the valve and chamber colors, I think he can. Especially since the rest of the...

Not that my opinion matters at all since you already have a plan, but just basically wanting to solve the immediate problem without going into a big job I think your thoughts on lapping the valves and replacing stem seals is a good plan. During that you can decide if it needs more. Did you ever...

Yep, but even if it’s both it should still cut cranking time by having fuel ready in the line.

One would think the check valve should help at least.

It just can’t empty the carb, no way no how. It can only evaporate or leak. It can however drain back what is in the fuel line. If you have one that does both it compounds the problem. My car has an electric pump so neither evap or drain back is a problem, but we have a 72 dart 318/two barrel...

This is the main reason I went to an electric pump. Engine fires off immediately now. I blocked off crossovers, used insulator spacers, and even a full recirculating fuel system, but nothing solved the evaporation issue. The electric pump did because of it’s ability to fill the bowls before...

Then I would be checking for fuel lines close to heat sources.

Any half way decent oil is perfectly fine and the Napa Gold/Wix filters are about the best you can get as an off the shelf filter. I run Castrol 5-30 full synthetic in the 5.9 but I wouldn’t run it in a slant or LA motor, as they were not machined to run thin synthetics.

Looks stock normal to me. The big spring (garage door spring as we call it) is suited for trucks and heavy cars to make a long advance curve. For a more performance oriented timing curve I replace that one big spring with a Mr. Gasket 925B spring. That brings in the total timing around 2,500 -...

You need to quote someone or use the @ in front of their username, or no one may ever see your question. Like @TrailBeast would notify me that someone is asking something or answering something.

Wow, Thanks Dan. I'm going with the Egyptian Mummy curse.:D

Depends on your engine block. I spent a lot of time finding out which was which, but it's been too long to remember the details of the year and size differences.

There were two different case housings made for the slant, and one is smaller around than the other. It's possible someone stuck the smaller diameter one in there not knowing that.

Actually it screams lack of fuel in general (clogged filter is just one reason it could be) Another instance of a lack of fuel would be sucking air, like a rubber section being cracked. Of course a weak fuel pump can do the same thing as already mentioned, but maybe the pump is getting worse as...

Nick on Nicks Garage in Canada recommends some of this on the 440 oil pump. IMO, any smoothing of casting flash is a good thing, and especially the oil galleys and any place the oil returns to the pan.

My heater core section was full of leaves and crap causing no heat. Glad someone mentioned it. Both hoses hot means it's circulating, but I wouldn't hesitate to flush the core backwards anyway.

I'd be making sure the choke works right first. "now that it's cold out" On the electrical part a good inspection and cleaning of the bulkhead connectors is in order.

I didn't notice this was in the slant section, sorry. All else still applies to all engines, heat and ethanol fuel as you know. And yes, I know exactly how the fuel lines are routed on a slant, and that they can be rerouted to help solve fuel heated in the lines. Another thing that does help is...

It's not possible for the fuel to get sucked out of the bowl/s by drainback. It is possible the fuel is running from the needle and seat back though. But even if the fuel ran back it would still have fuel in the bowl to start and run unless it evaporated. (which happens) An electric pump solves...

You didn't say what carb is on it, but some carbs have soft plugs in the bottom of the bowl area and the fuel leaks into the intake. The Rochester Quadrajet is one.

This is where I would agree on it being a possible booster problem. You hold the pedal down and have a continuous miss until it is released. Moving the connection to the carb spread the leak over the rest of the cylinders instead of just that one where it was connected, so it makes sense that...

I have to disagree with some of the posts on this. Most every vacuum operated power brake system introduces a bit of extra air into the intake system intermittently when the pedal is pressed or released. Here's how to tell normal from not normal. Any of us with power brakes can press and release...

What color is that "dark cloud"? Blue is oil, and black is too much fuel.

Betcha they had to use a longer bolt for that extra pulley on there.

Well you didn't mention the original mounting being a PIA because it pours oil down the side of the block every time you change the filter.:D Good solution Rob.

It looks like a slight turn of the crank clockwise would line them up, but if that is where the piston is at TDC there's a problem.

So is the nut.:D

Typical and exact symptoms of a cracked flex plate or loose converter bolts.

I have, and unless they have changed they seem to be made from thinner metal so they bend easily when bolted down so commonly have sealing problems.