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High idle until the electric choke comes off, then go. Maybe 2 minutes.

That was PST’s 1.03 bars and was fixed years ago. I remember because I was waiting for the fixed bars before I ordered mine.

Exactly, and now I really only hear the pump until I start the car. Not near as much through the body. I also have a return that uses an orifice instead of a regulator. It T’s off right at the carb inlet. I temporarily put a pressure gauge inline to watch the fuel pressure as I tested the...

I have that exact pump, and it’s a noisy little punk if mounted with what it comes with. Those three little round grommets just don’t cut it. I screwed a 3 inch long tube of radiator hose to the frame and bolted the pump to that. It stands the pump off about 1.5 inches from the frame metal and...

That may be only because you have very little reversion, or the fuel is washing down the runner. Not saying it couldn’t possibly be a stem seal, just highly unlikely IMO. That much oil running down the stem after shutdown just doesn’t make sense.

I don’t know, as having a stem seal go bad right after an intake swap is kind of suspect.

White “smoke” that dissipates within a few feet is coolant or condensation. Blue smoke that drifts over to the neighbors house is oil. I would suggest you take another real close look at the intake, especially down in the bottoms of the ports on the intake and heads both. Oil can get pulled up...

Been seeing that more often over the last decade or so. Probably same issue as with the cams and lifters of late. (sub par metals) Awhile back I saw hardened pump rods that solved that issue, but don’t remember where, sorry. That is the solution though. Went and looked it up. Hughes Engines...

Greg

Just a detail just in case it could help. Some cast iron heads are high in the center. I put a straight edge on a set from front to back and had a good 1/8 inch of gap on each end. Of course I don’t know if yours are cast or not, but squeezed out in the center is a dead giveaway. I also...

I totally get where you are going with your carb because I did exactly the same with my 770 avenger but manually because it doesn’t have adjustable bleeds. The transition bleeds were rich, but when I got it leaned down to the AFR I was shooting for the motor acted a bit weak and glitchy just off...

Totally agree on the 50 with those clearances, as long as the pump pressure never tops out in the upper R’s. The way I look at it is idle pressure isn’t near as important as WOT pressure. If your motor never hits the bypass it means you are getting the full flow of oil to the places where it...

A long time ago I worked for a company called Advance Adapters that made CNC transfer cases, bracketry and other equipment and OMG I was in heaven.:D Only problem was we couldn't use the machinery for personal stuff. This is them now. AdvanceAdapters.com | Engine & Transmission Conversion...

OH YEA, RUB IT IN!:D I'd LOVE to have a lathe, but sure don't have the room for one. Heck, I have a nice Craftsman Radial Arm saw and stand I have to leave outside because of no place to put it. I'm about to give it away to someone that does have room and can use it.

Exactly, and one point I'd like to make about shimming a pulley like for a water pump. Most think shimming is putting washers under the pulley and how hokey that is to do, but that's not the only (at home) way of doing it. I take a piece of metal the thickness I need and use a 4" grinder with a...

I would too if I wasn't concerned about mailing pulley back and forth for weeks.:D

Nope. If that were mine and I wanted a simple solution I would space the water pump pulley out as far as I could without it hitting the pulley in front of it. I'd bet your alternator pulley would be real close to good after. A crank to water pump pulley misalignment of 1/4 is a whole lot worse...

And just in case anyone still thinks the pulleys line up. That water pump pulley is probably 1/4 inch off compared to the crank pulley groove. That'd be a belt eater even if a belt did stay on.

Flowmasters are loud, but not that loud.:D

Speaking of rods, did you happen to see this video? Apparently a "Race 340". The guy gets down to pulling the pistons and rods and finds some rods I have never seen before. BIG A** BEEFY aluminum rods at about 5.20 in the video. Says he is going to replace them with iron, and I had to wonder...

Mostly their electronics, but the quality and customer service with those things alone would make me not trust their rods.

It's not so much the forge they came out of, but the quality of the material that went in. I don't trust Procomp anything any more after a few dealings with their products and service.

Kinda like the bars on the lower fender corners in the front. Just nice to have because they do stabilize things a little, but not really critical.

Too bad they don't make a block sanding robot.:D That thing sounds good.

Why I asked is because that manifold might be ok for everywhere but idle. Sounds like it. I understand sometimes even little stuff still bugs us though.:D

I assume this is all being checked at idle, or close to it? Maybe it straightens up at running speeds.

Can't go wrong with Gates hoses and belts as far as off the shelf stuff.

Yep on a carbed motor, because some fuel burns in the exhaust. But this is "fast 2.0 f.inj" :poke::) Pishta posted while I was typing.

SOOOO much horsepower your intake will blow right off the motor.:D

AND normally only used in conjunction with a Flux Capacitor.