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power brakes? leaking at back into booster?

didn't they "tear up drums" and have to be heated up before working well? I'm sure someone has correct answers instead of "this is what I think I remember".

use 10" or 11" B-body spindle/drum assemblies with late model A-body upper control arms with large ball joints. browse thru RockAuto, I "think" the lower ball joint from disc brakes the same as B-body drum??? but don't quote me.

mine from Moser are set that way to use 10" B-body drum brakes. some C-body are 5" bolt pattern

Sorry! I misread that also. Gee, teachers were right about reading comprehension. Guess that's why I need to read instructions, listen to someone explain things and watch them do it. Thanks George!

I thought they were a square cut but if o-rings work...well, that's even better!

possibly the pin in the proportioning valve is bumped to one end and only allowing fluid to the front?

IF you redrill the factory drums and I believe keep the axle offset the same, yes. IF you use the B-body 10" brakes and drums, some is and some isn't. IF that makes sense, you are a better person than I. (look at Rock Auto to see what parts would swap).

Do you have SS springs and/or long shackles on the car? "Seems" unlikely different years would change the length but easy enough to check with a trip thru RockAuto listings. IF you have a parts store that still has catalogs and buyers guides, you could find a longer one in the same design. I did...

I believe everything except the pushrod would come with a master cylinder or rebuild kit. The pushrod rod is available as adjustable unit from???(someone fill in the blank here)

if it is the large bolt pattern conversion you are talking about, then, yes, you need the ball joints for a later model A-body with discs.(73 and up)

that's good to know. let us know how they fit and if there are other challenges.

anyone using them and what brand/seller did you go with?Thanks!Bob