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@my68barracuda What have you done to you car to put it in CAM-2 class as opposed to E-Street Prepared ?

For sure. That flow chart I posted doesn't mention if things were "moved around". Also, doesn't say if it worked in the real world.

This was not B engine head. Just a small block prototype/iteration. I have small block W-2 1/2 flow charts too. Just stuff Tom Hoover's group came up with for it's developmental contactors to create or enhance. Sorry if this is taking this discussion off topic. I just wanted to point out...

Here's 2.19 intakes and 1.60 exhausts in a small block. March 1975.

At Spring Fling last April

Wish they would do an SBM aluminum head with stock looking ends. Like how 440 Source does. Something different than the rest. There a decent amount of SBM heads out now. None with that stealth look

DRE = Diamond Racing Engines = Bud Elkins ported/prepped SVI = Ted Sphear This is a 288" experiment. Determined not a way to go. That's why most haven't heard of it. It's not 314" combo Glidden ran. Found This Interesting Page On The Hamtramck Registry

You need Dougs or TTI headers for ground clearance And a Milodon road race pan to keep oil pressure and prevent oil pump from sucking air.

RPM = $$$ = valve train breakage = expensive parts to prevent it

Yep

Picture adjusting the timing curves and the wiper motor location The dials are in those two white square on the circuit board

I have E-curve with a street driver. 12K or so miles on it. The top of the cap is tall on it. If you are running a wiper motor the right angle plug wire ends comes real close. There is plenty of room under it, I don’t know why they designed neck so tall. PITA is you are messing with the...

Scat cast is around 500-550 hp max. Then add/subtract contributing factors: traction, gear, manual trans, stall…. Eagle cast seems like 450-500 but some have cracked them at less HP. Most reported 4” stroker cracks have been from Eagle cast. Personally, I wouldn’t touch a Eagle cast. I have a...

Ahh, now that makes more sense.

You should have less than 300mV (.3 volts) in your coolant system no matter what's in it. Test with a multimeter ground and one side dangling in the coolant. This is 76.8 mV with additive and water alone. Additive should have electrolysis resisting properties.

I run Reverse Osmosis Water from the grocery store and Justice Brothers Super Radiator Cooler and Justice Brothers Radiator Protectant for added anti-rust and anti-electrolysis when running straight water. Both lubricant the water pump. Been in my aluminum headed, aluminum radiator for 11...

“The valley” that was a long haul in the 90’s from Orange Co. Sounds like a lot of 90’s tech in that thing. ….Go figure it was built then.

HEY !! I didn't attack you at all. :wtf:

Weather he needs a sway bar or anti roll bar or whatever.... this statement is not right. There's no need to spread mis-information like this: Not everything in this hobby from YOUR point of view.

Yes I agree it's moot to the original poster. But that doesn't make it less confusing to others that read this and understand the terminology. From the install article on the black 1960 Chevy: Understanding Drag Racing Rear Anti-Roll Bars *with my notes in red bubbles This is another...

Obviously, in Drag circles they are marketing the bar in the back to help launching as an "Anti Roll Bar". And most Musclecar and American Car circles, they are marketed as front or rear "Sway Bars". Sway Bar = Anti Sway Bar = Anti Roll Bar. Are all interchangeable terms. They all function...

?? Sway Bar = Anti Roll Bar Or are you talking about a Sway Bar/Anti Roll Bar setup specifically for Drag Racing? If so, you're right he never specifically mentioned using it for Drag Racing.

Why? I have an adjustable style with dog one links. I just take off link off at track. On a higher speed road-course a rear sway bar can make the car tail happy. never issue in 10 years

can’t make a blanket statement like that without knowing the rest of the combo (context it was said in). And in the end… how the car actually behaves on the track. Also combos will change per track layout, driver skill level, and even driver preference but SS are stiffer than 383 leafs...

Buy Dr Diff caliper adapters for 11-3/4 rotors. Or find used. Then buy 11-3/4 rotors that are about same price as 10 3/4. All else same.

the car Ontos is referring to is a 68 Barracuda Fastback. are you saying Gerald Robinson also raced a 66 Barracuda?

Doug’s and TTI are over the drag link (over chassis headers) Those type headers typically have very good ground clearance… but are tighter fit and can be harder to install. there’s trade-offs. The Road Race pan is built to maximize ground clearance AND control oil from lateral side to side...

This is a Dougs pn 453 header…

What is the make and model of the 1 7/8 headers ?? the original poster is asking if they fit with this Road Race Milodon pan: these are 1 5/8” TTI step headers. TTI Part # TTI340A-C0 to C5 (coating options)

As wide as you can fit. With a 64-66 barracuda that’s not much. The rear wheel well skirt is a killer on those. I’ve seen the whole opening raised up to fit tires. www.teamstarfish.com