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Yes, that’s a round head. you’ll need brackets and a pump and new P/S hose to convert. I would try less expensive options first: heat shield and cooler.

PS cooler. Heat shield Do you have a round neck TRW/Eaton pump or a Saginaw style oval head? I’ve had round head style with that lag. But it just didn’t start because of an added heat source. I changed to Saginaw style, problem was gone.

toss it. not factory lines or routing like the others you see for sale. The driers are typically re-used.

That is an owner or dealer added A/C system or parts of a system. that is not the factory location for that. And you can see the wonky brackets

When rebuilding an old engine I really think you need to physically inspect the coolant passages in the bare block with all the freeze plugs out. And you need to physically pick the inside of the block clean. the passage between the cylinder bores and area along the bottom off the bores at the...

Did you take the radiator and heater core to a radiator shop to have them rodded out and cleaned when you have the motor rebuilt? When the block was bare and you had the freeze plug out did you look for and pick out any flakes and debris in the cooling passages around the cylinder bores...

Is that the one that gets the least and/or last oiling? Guess which cylinder has the weakest and outlining compression....#5 ! Small blocks I heard it's #5 and #6. And surprise-surprise, #6 is what let go on my motor.

Have you seen the videos of his motor running in his other thread? http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=321245

If you want to keep the budget down. Just take it apart your self, see if the crank can be turned/machined (~125-$200), replace bearings, probably one used rod, new complete gasket kit. Check the oil pressure. A bad oil pump could have cause the rod to go bad. Good chance of it. Or do minor...

Yes, just screw in a mechanical gauge instead/where you screwed in the oil pressure sensor. Here's a dedicated oil pressure test setup at Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html There is one screw into my motor in those videos also. Here is one...

Did you rev it until it make the noise, then pull the plug? For each? You are looking for a difference in sound while it's making the noise. A mechanical oil pressure gauge test like was mentioned above could be helpful.

Yes. Very easy to do the spark plug pull test. This got me a new stroker motor! Yay! :banghead: :cheers: #-o :burnout:] Sound familiar ? 340 Rod Bearing gone bad - YouTube 340 rod bearing gone bad #2 - YouTube

If you look at the picture closely, I think the original poster is running a setup like this. The routing off the filter goes to the 71 style vapor return hard line on the top back of the passenger side inner fender. Were as the body long fuel hard line is supplied at the passenger frame...

Was that your fuel line routing before you added the electric pump? In that picture your fuel line is resting directly on the heater hoses. And its laying on the valve cover and then routed all the way over to the intake manifold. That's not right. And a potential safety hazard...

Lou from Virgina is a awesome guy. He's drove out to Los Angeles and raced out on Willow Springs Raceway. Josh Skinner built a more competion oriented 66 Dart with a /6 the Dave Mapes in PA now owns. Josh lost at least one motor due to oil starvation. IIIRC he had stock pan with home...

I got my Barracuda with ~40K miles showing on the O.D. No way that was 40K miles total, so must have been 140K miles. We did a low budget re-ring/hone/valvejob/etc job on the original STD bore original piston motor at that time. That was 1994! Last month, the #6 rod bearing starting clacking...

I don't think that happened very often. Unless it was a plant closing or a complete model change, like 76 A-bodies to 77 F-bodies. I'm real doubtfull of those "they threw on there whatever they had laying around" statements. It's more likely certain option combinations triggered the bigger...