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I have a 1999 5.9 Magnum motor out of a ram truck listed on CL™ Multiple would be buyers want the VIN number from the truck (which I don't have) in order to make sure it is not a 5.2 Engine. Is there any other way to verify what size motor it is? Thanks

Easy to make your own bracket for the cable attached to the 727 shift arm. You need to know how much travel you need for the 727 and how much you have with the cable. I made this one, Pictures can be seen here. HEMI 727 Torqueflite W/ Shifter - auto parts - by owner - vehicle...

The correct way to start is open the carb to full throttle (engine off) and adjust the kick down linkage so it is at the end of its travel.

It almost sounds like something is clogging or restricting a passage. Does the fluid have a burnt of off smell? It might be worthwhile to check the filter.

You have too much overlap between the 2-3 shift. One possible cause is the 2nd gear band is either adjusted too tight or not releasing fast enough.

Can you possibly take pictures of the drivers side of the engine (mainly the carburetor) towards the firewall and the transmission levers (second pic shoot from the rear of car towards the front so we can help you get it right the first time? Thanks

$50 plus shipping

I have this one if it will work for you let me know. Total length end to end is 12-7/8"

Yeah, I thought about putting a tape measure when I was taking the last picture. LOL I will have to do that. Thanks

Can someone please identify these throttle/kickdown/shifter parts are so I can put them up for sale to someone that needs them. Thanks

X2

X2

I disagree and say it is for a stick shift bell housing since there is no inspection plate to get to the torque converter bolts. SOrry Kim

youtube it, you will see lots there

I had them on my 68 GTS 383 Dart and they work just fine with the BBP

Hey MoparJoe20. What year Ranger and did it have Disc Brakes?

I thought the length was correct on this rear end and most come with Disc Brakes?

440 with any kind of power and a 4-speed will need a Dana 60

I can't say for sure but the 727 cases and where the kickdown linkage attached are all the same. So it should work as you are only dealing with the distance from the bell to the arm.

if that doesn't do it for you, you might consider a manual shift valve body. More positive shifts and your trans will last longer.

Throw that Lokar away and put the factory kick down linkage back in it.

A Dana is a Dana as far as I know. They have probably improved over the years and you might want to look into gear sets to check on the applications and years to give you an idea of what to shoot for. The original cars had them made for them which meant they had the pad and bolt holes for a...

Looks very nice! How much did that set you back if you don't mind me asking?

No, as long as it is not a lock up going into a non lock up trans.

Yes Jim, That is what the factory says to do, I am sure you will have your ride back on the road in no time and sorry about the spelling errors on the instructions. Guy

server hiccup

Here is the procedure from the Chrysler Manual: Disassembly 1) Straighten the tabs on the focer and remove the cover and gasket. Push the body back and remove the buttons, springs, ball and rollers and washers from both ends of the trunnion pin. 2) Remove the cover clamps and polished jute...

No, but you can get the plastic bushings from Chrysler new.

It's called a trunion (sp.) preceded the Constant Velocity joint. Not sure if Napa can get you the boot so you can seal it again and add lube.

you need to replace it with an 8-1/4 or 8-3/4 before you put your motor in, especially with a four speed. The 7-1/4 was designed for the slant six motors primarily and have very weak spider gears. Save yourself the headache and change it as soon as you can.