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You can make your own brackets to hold both lines and weld them to your housing like I did or have a muffler shop weld them on before you do the conversion.

The calipers are the same as the later A-body front calipers (I.E. cheap and readily available).

Thank You

How to pop or remove the residual please?

Good info, Thanks!

To partially answer your question. All the sets I have seen do NOT have a one piece line from the front of the proportion valve to the rear end of the car. I believe for shipping reasons, it is two pieces with a union approximately in the center.

You are right the A-bodies never had four wheel disc brakes, however they did have four wheel disc brakes on that era Imperials. I believe 1973-1975

Yes, I redrilled my axles and drums. You can get the template to drill them from Art Morrison.

Standard M/C uses a 4 bolt attachement

If you did not change the upper control arms at all and all you did was change the spindles and brakes, something else is wrong. Can you post some pics?

The two upper control arm bolts should have the heads towards each other, You will be able to see that you are moving the upper control arm towards you (pushing the top of the tire out). Keep in mind that you are changing many things like Camber, Caster, Toe in/Toe out. This is a quick fix to...

Yes, Upper control arms have adjustment that should correct the Camber (Tilt). The washers have the bolt in them off center, you basically "clock" them to where you need them. That should get you on the road safely enough to get to an alignment shop to correctly align your front end.

If you are going to run a sway bar, put your calipers at the rear with bleeder pointing up. You might also consider steel braided brake lines as the don't "swell" under extreme pressure.

Awesome, Glad that worked out for you!

It is not mine. Contact the ad on Craigslist to make the deal with him and I can pick it up, send you the parts that you need (shipping on you) and the housing will get scrapped.

Yeah, I get take it apart and just saend you that. My metal recycler guy will be happy to take the housing away. Let me know

Let me know if I can help you by getting the whole thing and I can take it apart to send you just what you need minus that heavy axle. That should reduce the shipping significantly. Guy

Mopar 1975 Chrysler Imperial disk brake axle Here is one for $200

74-75 Chrysler imperial had rear disc with a drum E brake in the rotor hat. Probably uses obsolete rotors today? Yes, I did on my Dart. Literally a bolt in with all MOPAR parts and E-brake. The Calipers are the same as the 73 and later A-Body and are readily available.

try here: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=4536010

I hope the outer bearing didn't chew up the housing end. I would get that axle out of there asap.

A shop with a press will be needed to replace the bearings. I think most guys on here would recommend the (green) bearings. The 8-3/4 does not require you to pull the pumpkin (what you are calling the hub) both axles can be withdrawn without touching it. One side will have an adjuster on it to...

Yes, pull the axle out (axle and hub are one assembly). You are probably right about the bearing. Driver's side is stiff because of the positraction. Keep us posted.

X2 Get BOTH wheels off the ground, should turn then.

I have a sbp disc brake setup if anybody still needs it. Let me know so I can take pics to send.

1975-1976 Imperial I would install an adjustable proportioning valve so you have the right balance between the front and rear.

I did it with Mopar rear discs from an Imperial 9.25 rear axle. Literally a bolt in and has the parking brake cables. The Calipers are easy to find and use the same pads as the 73 up fronts.

You can use the same one

There is one that I did that nobody mentioned here. 1975-1976 Chrysler Imperial rear disc brakes, yes you do have to drill the fifth hole at the bottom. Other than that it is a DIRECT BOLT IN including parking brake.

I am happy for you, seems you are a lucky guy. The only thing I question is the parking brake.....is that something you can merge together to make it work?