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Should be the same as hardtops.

Mine have pitting. That's why the cost was so much. They said most of those pieces(other brands) are steel. If mine were steel they would have been half the cost. Fixing all the pits and rechroming would have been $660 a pair. The place I had quote them does wonderful work and they would...

I'm in need of the lower pivot that the glass attaches to. The glass attaches to it with glass setting tape. Sorry for the confusion.

Looking for a pair of chrome vent window pivots for a 68 Dart. It's the pieces that the door glass vent window attach to. Must have VERY nice chrome and NO pitting. Not looking for something that needs to be rechromed. I sent my originals out to be rechromed and just got the estimate. I...

I think Layson's makes reproductions if you want to go that route.

I don't think the piece you show on the right is the same piece he's looking for. I think he's looking for the stainless piece that goes on the back side of the A-pillar. Yours looks like it's one of the pieces that mounts to the top frame.

You can soak it in white vinegar too. Or EvapoRust but the vinegar is cheap.

Are you missing yours or do you have one that doesn't work? If you have a non working horn, they can be taken apart and cleaned. Then turning the adjusting screw might get it working again.

My guess is that adapter isn't as thick as the one I linked to. That would push the brake pedal back and make it high. An adjustable pushrod would fix the issue. You could also add an aluminum shim behind the existing adapter. You could experiment with washers to get the thickness correct...

That looks like a home-made adapter. Check out this one. Master cylinder adapter, no studs | AR Engineering Also, measure the length of your existing pushrod and the thickness of the adapter you have.

What's the issue you are trying to solve? The newer aluminum master cylinders + the AR Engineering adapter should take the stock length pushrod. This is with manual brakes.

You might check with the brake line/fuel line companies and see if that's something they already offer.(Fine Lines, Inline Tube) Fine Lines made me a fuel line that they didn't offer. I sent them my original line and they reproduced it. That might be an option too.

I bought a reproduction and it sits lower then the 1/4 panel.(not flush) Looking at A-bodies at the Mopar Nats, a lot of their gas caps sat low as well. I'm not sure if they were flush from the factory or not. Just something to look at when you find an original. Let us know how it fits please.

Correct. This is what a Tuff Wheel adapter looks like on a 68 column. The inner metal ring that sticks out the bottom of the adapter will rub on the outside of the column. You'll need to sand that inner surface down so you have clearance there. I made an aluminum ring to make it look nicer.

Have you checked the other restoration parts companies? Try Mega Parts and Herb's Parts. They usually have stock on hand. Jegs probably just orders it from their supplier.

Make sure the one you find has a master spline on the inside. Some of them don't. They are reproduced if you want a new one.

I bought brand new from Van's Auto. Whether they have any in stock with all the Covid shortages I don't know.

Tony's Parts sells a brand new reproduction thermostat housing. Lots of originals are heavily pitted. I got my heater hose nipples in the HELP section at my local parts store. If the HELP line doesn't have what you need, they should have something behind the counter they can look up. I want...

Look for a clutch style sure-grip. The cone style is considered to be problematic by most. I bought a new unit from Dr Diff. He blueprints all of the new clutch sure-grips he sells. Mopar 8 3/4" (8.75) Clutch Type Sure-Grip ("Powr-lok")

Looks like the center part is just a sticker. Is that what it is? I wonder if a graphics/sign company can make a new vinyl sticker for you? Otherwise it just looks like there are a few dents to remove.

They are listed new on Rockauto.com. As far as removal, you can just use a thick flat piece of metal with two holes drilled into it that are spaced the same as the lower pulley holes. Loosen the big crank nut and use that to press against as you tighten the two other bolts. The balancer will...

Thanks for the correction. I assume that the stainless for a 68-69 can be used as long as the trim clips are installed and the proper gasket is used?

The bottom piece on a 67(hardtop and convertible) is chromed plastic. 68 and 69 convertibles are also chromed plastic on the bottom.

Instead of buying something you have to modify, maybe you could make your own? Here's what I'm doing on my 68. I got this idea from a couple people on an E-body site I'm on. Not sure how much this would transfer to your early-A. I just went to the metal shop down the road from work and...

Do you have an original one that's bad? If so, JS Restorations can rebuild your original switch. I know he was back logged with work from a recent health issue. Not sure if he's taking on new work just yet. It would be worth looking into though.

Found two on E-bay but they aren't cheap...wow! NOS MOPAR SPEEDOMETER PINION GEAR DODGE 25 26 29 30 31 33 35 37 38 39 41 40 42 | eBay MOPAR SPEEDOMETER PINION GEAR 40 TOOTH/ORANGE 3.91 4.10 Gears 440 HEMI Cuda GTX | eBay

I bought new bezels and lenses. They came with screws but aren't the right size. Ridiculous! Did you try looking on R/T Specialties website?

Mega Parts also has them.

If you have a pair of horns that doesn't work, they can be rebuilt. It's not hard. If you are missing them all together, then that's another story.

Mopar used the same door strikers up into the 80's on their full sized pickups. You should be able to find them at a local salvage yard. Check the rubber bushings between the bolt and the outer sleeve. The ones on my Challenger were destroyed from years of closing the doors with worn out...